Ok, I know you put the arp moly lube and tq them down in the order:

9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10

But, what about heat cycles? LAst time I installed my arps it seems that I had a coolant leak (very small) just above the block stamp (corner). There was always a small puddle there...So what is the proper way to install these? I'd like this to be search friendly for future questions, sinc eI could never find a good answer on installing them. It was all about torque and sequence, but apparently there is more to it than that.

 

There isnt more to it than that and boviously you didnt search cause I installed mine 2 days ago and found all the info needed here.

The only thing other than torque specs and sequence is that some dumbshits like to retorque the headstuds like 500-1000miles later, just to make SURE

Waste of time, one time deal and these suckers hold

 

I searched here and ht. I saw posts of some people re-tqing after a certain interval and some who didnt. But I did mine exactly how everyone said to do. COrrect sequence and tq. Studs hand tight into block. Does anyone know a definite sequence with this?

 

Start inside work your way out, thats what SRP told me for my D16

 

I suspect multiple problems with this b16. head warpage, bottom of teh block warped (cant ever get the oil pan gasket to seal...replaced it like 5 times). I may have had the studs right.....There was no oil coming out of the cam seal there, so I'm 99% sure it was coolant. I would see it sometiems and sometimes I wouldn't.

So there really is no need for heat cycles and retqing?

 

It's not that much work and it beats pulling the entire head later down the road.....I'm gonna do it.

 

You buy these upgraded studs because they HOLD, they dont back out and if done right the first time they arent moving anywhere

Its not a huge deal to do it, but not nessecary I dont think

 

I've never retorqued mine and I torque my studs into the block. Only something like 5 ft/lbs just to make sure they make it all the way to the bottom.