PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

have just recently finsihed spraying a honda CRX 89 shape in bright yellow cellulose paint, does anyone know if I will need to laquer this seperately?
cheers

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

any professional car sprayers in the house???????

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

no, you dont need to clear coat celly, just put loads on, flat it back and polish.. celly by nature needs lots of flatting and buffing to gain a good shine, whereas 2k paints have a good "gun" finish.. but they also contain isocyanide prepolymers which are letal (although i do know a bloke who paints cars with 2k with no mask or anything and claims only to feel "fuzzy" for a few days, but he is a fool

whats up with it? is it matt, does it seem "dry"

what gun and compressor did you use?

what environment did you paint it in?

what ratio of paint/thinners did you use?

how was your gun set up, what fluid tip and what was the pressure at the gun?


with celly the main problem i see is peple dont thin it enough in a futile attempt to stop it from running, but then you need to put loads on to get a glossy "wet" look, loads of heavy paint on a panel=sags, lots of thin coats, that the trick


but then again if you used rattle can primer, cheapo paint , a £50 gun and a crap compressor you can only expect what you put in.. a cheap nasty finish from cheap nasty tools and equipment

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

hi there
yeah i have all the tools, a compressor and air brush etc but they are not the best money can buy. I basically was gonna pay a guy £600 for a respray (prob bout $800) but then I figured for that amount i could get all the equipment etc and do it myself with money left over plus the learning experience and having the tools to do the job again. I have attempted spraying the car black previously and that was a right nightmare.... So now I have as you said covered it in lots of thin yellow layers. Unfortunately the garage I am using is not completely air tight and it a tad dusty so I have had the odd mistake appear but that was all part of the learning process. I have set the brush to 60psi and that seems to be fine it not loosing pressure or anything...
The ratio i used was about 70/30 thinners to paint... although this was not measured precisely on every refill ...
I also had my fair share of problems with water in the line.
The whole thing has been done on a budget and you can kind of tell but being yellow this hides alot or errors whereas the black caused endless problems and rubbing down of paint etc...
I'll try and get some pics up here for everyone. but u can see a few on www.faceparty.com/djnikko

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

Hmm, cellulose and isocyanates? Doesn't sound right, I think your talking about polyurethane enamel. To properly spray urethane you do need some pretty good respirators, the guys here at Boeing and Kenworth have to use complete suits with secondary air supply, but that is what they do every day.

I would think you would need to clear coat several coats after you have several coats of color applied, and possibly rubbed out.

Your biggest problem sounds like the dust, which will ruin any chance of a perfect job. Ideally you would like to have a nice positive airfeed to the room to take the overspray off the panel you just sprayed, which is why a booth is important. You might check for someone with a booth to rent you for the final clearcoats.

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

if you read the post properly i was refering to 2 pack paints and isocyanates...


anyway, what gun have you got and what fluid tip etc is in it? what was the spray pattern adjusted to and how far was the gun from the job?


60psi is too high and will cause "dry spray" and if i were you i'd thin the paint more...

water in the line is a bad,bad thing.. you can get a water trap for not much money, oreven disposeable filters that fit to the base of the gun for literally a few quid..

if theres water/dampness in the line there will be water trapped in the paint.. good first frosty night and the water will freeze and expand, blistering the paint



ok, spraying celly everyone is different but if i were you i'd chalk that job down to experience, strip it off and start again.. use standard thinners for the primer and most of the colour coats.. after you have primed it properly, sprayed a guide coat and got rid of and high/low spots then spray two colour coats, leave it to air dry for 24 hours and then flat it back with 600grit wet and dry

spray another two coats and again after 24hrs flat it back with 1200 another coat and then 1700 then changing to finishing thinners spray another few coats (be careful, the paint will be a lot thinner, but will flow better which is what gives a deep shine)

you can either leave this as it came out the gun, or if there are any imperfectons flat it and polish it..


good luck

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

thanks mate think I shall have another bash at it in the spring or summer there just arent enough dry hours in the day at the moment. Also I have a lighting problem in the car port so this causes a few problems seeing the bottom panels of the car (difficult to explain) I shall wheel it out onto the driveway when the weather picks up and hopefully I'll get away with just sanding down my errors and using loads of thin layers, i'll take your advice about the paint thou ive already spent bout £150 on thinners. The thinners I am using is made by tetroseal and is just known as standard thinners for all uses. I was also next going to embark on spraying some graphics down the sides or on the bonnet. Ive reckon you can go on ebay.com or any graphics website and cut and paste the pic then if you have a big printer for say maps etc then you can print out a template for both sides tape them on and away you go.... specially as some of these graphics places are charge an arm and a leg for some sticky vynil. let me know if anyone has tried this or thinking of it. I reckon it could work but then things always seem easier when planning them in your head.

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

Tip on masking graphics. Before you spray color on the graphic area, spray clear. This seals the mask so that color will not bleed under the mask, giving you cleaner lines.

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

how much was your gun? not one of those £19.99 air tool kits was it?

Re:PAINT WORK ADVICE
 

yeah if im honest it is, I have used two of them already cuz it would of prob cost me more in thinners to clean the thing....