tukinnam

ok, I just got done with my auto-manual swap. Car runs and everything but.. after a few minutes of driving (I'm assuming this is when the engine got hot @ operating temp) the tranny will not shift! It wont shift in any gear at all.

When the car is shut off, it will shift fine. Start it, it wont shift.

I'm guessing I might have overfilled the tranny? I filled it up while it was on jackstands.

Any ideas?

Also, While the car was in jackstands, I changed in all gears and only the driver side halfshaft was turning, is this normal? (if not, it's probably because the passanger side cvu-boot is torn)

thanks~

tukinnam

anyways.. after searching the web for a few hours, I'm concluding it to be a clutch problem.
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SUBJECT: Manual Transmission Difficult to Shift - Diagnostic Tips
MODEL: All with Manual Transmission
SITUATION: Transmission may be difficult to shift especially first gear engagement and/or gear shift linkage is binding. Note: Field observations have indicated that a transmission which is difficult to shift (especially into first gear) is primarily a clutch related problem and only in isolated cases a failure in the transmission itself.

PROCEDURE:

Verify the customer complaint:

Note: Engage the parking brake and assure that no people or objects are in the vehicle's path.

- Run the engine at idle speed
- Press the clutch pedal to the floor
- From the neutral stick shift position engage first gear

If first gear is difficult to engage, hold the stick shift at the resistance point (approximately half of the total stick shift travel) with constant force.

Then switch the ignition off with the other hand.

DIAGNOSIS 1:
If first gear now engages completely, i.e. the stick shift moves to the end position without any additional pressure applied, there is a problem in the clutch system.

Explanation:
Because the clutch does not uncouple completely, a residual torque is transmitted to the transmission input shaft when the engine is running. This inhibits the release and meshing of the sliding sleeve, in the transmission, at the end of the synchronization process. Turning the engine off relieves the input shaft of this torque thus simulating a completely uncoupled clutch.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
If the stick shift remains at the resistance point, there is a problem in the external gear shift linkage or in the transmission.

CAUSE:

DIAGNOSIS 1:
Possible causes for a clutch problem as per Diagnosis 1 above are:
- Input shaft taper splines not lubricated properly/grease dried out.
- Clutch disc difficult to move on transmission input shaft.
- Clutch disc wobble.
- Air in the hydraulic system of clutch mechanism.
- Release bearing defective or difficult to move on the guide sleeve.
- Clutch disc or pressure plate broken/worn out.

DIAGNOSIS 2:
Possible causes for gear shift linkage binding and/or internal transmission problems as per Diagnosis 2 above:
- External gearshift linkage binding (shift rod joints stiff).
- Stick shift bellows boot incorrectly installed (positioned too high or too low on the stick shift lever).
- Sound deadening between the outer gear shift linkage and the body incorrectly installed and/or distorted.

Possible causes inside of the transmission:
- Faulty synchronization.
- Internal gear shift linkage binding.
- Water in the transmission fluid. (rare)

turboDA6

ur clutch is broken... the springs snapped... yay for u lol

SpankedYA!

Bleed the line or tighten your cable, which ever you have. Sounds like the clutch just isn't disengaging all the way.