is this machine shop dumb?
 

i have scat h beam rods, these guys are telling me that the rod is hitting the main girrdle and the cylinder walls. he seems to think that they should be drop in parts. he thinks they are the wrong part but they arnt. im thinking about bringing this thing to another shop

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

i called the place i bought em from and he said you usually always have to clearance the block for the rods to fit. its an after market part so its obviously bigger. i think this guy might be trying to screw me cause i didnt buy the parts from him cause he wanted 450 for eagle rods and 550 for pistons. and instead i found a place that sold me a package for 800. o well any suggestions

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

notch the block, commonly done to motors w/ aftermarket rods.

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

take him a picture that shows him;but the rods shouldnt be hitting the girdle

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

Very common to notch D-series blocks with aftermarket rods, I had to notch my block with Crowers. Heres a write up for T.O.O

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d%...0Block%201.jpg

We mark an area that's 3/4" wide and approximately centered on each side of the block's cylinder bores. 3/4" is plenty of distance to clear the rods' beams ans we'll taper the cut from outside the lines back to the cylinder bores. If you put a mark that's 1/4" into the block and 1/4" down into the bores, that's the amount you'll be removing...effectively straight-lining the area with your grinder.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d%...0Block%202.jpg

This photo shows the block after about 10 minutes with a die grinder and a carbide cutter. Notice how the corners of the reliefs are tapered back to the original lower edge of the cylinder. You do not want square edges in these areas, as stress risers could develop. make sure when you're grinding in these areas on the block that you wear eye protection, as the cast iron particles from the cylinder liner will rust in your eyes and having them "drilled" out, isn't a pleasant experience. Obviously, the block will need to be cleaned after this operation, as is evidenced by the grinding debris in the photo.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d%...0Block%203.jpg

Here's the finished product. The reliefs have been just "touched" by a 60 grit cartridge roll and a tiny radius has also been placed on the bottom of the cylinder bore. This will make the transition back up the cylinder wall a little less "wearing" for the pistons' skirts. The block has been thoroughly cleaned with a solvent and then it's been scrubbed with hot soapy water, prior to the final rinse with hot water. Blow the block dry, including all the bolt holes. Make a good sized roll of Bounty towels on some sticks (paint stirrers work great), spray them with some WD-40 and wipe the cylinder bores until there's no hint of dirt, or surface rust showing.

Copyright Larry Widmer

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

since they are hitting the girdle, is it ok for him to notch out that too? i cant imagine it being that much. i called the company and they say its a must to do that cause the rods are bigger than stock.

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

I've never heard of having to notch the girdle. ??? That can't be right. :-\
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Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

i think its mentioned on endyn's site as well ???

for anyone looking to not have to notch their d16, i have some nice crower rods for sale (shamelss plug) ;)

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

I notched my block for my eagles. The rod bolt was deathly close to hitting the girdle, but it cleared so I was content on not notching anything else.

Re:is this machine shop dumb?
 

Careful the girldle isnt to thick, oil flows inside of it. Cut it down to much and you will have a leak.

I would get your normal Eagle H beam rods.