LS/Vtec Help
#1
LS/Vtec Help
Ok so I am in the middle of doing a LS/Vtec build. I just realized that all the FAQ I have booked marked say you have to use adjustable cam gears, otherwise your timing will always be off.
So now I have a complete LS swap minus tranny, and a B16 head in front of me when I think: "Vtec oil line kit-$60 for earls, Dowls-$15, Cam Gears-$110-150". So that's an extra atleast $200. For that price I could just get a GSR block, not screw with the stuff and have a girdle.
So my question basically is do I eally need adjustable cam gears? If so why is this swap at all popular if it would be cheaper to use a vtec block? Thanks
So now I have a complete LS swap minus tranny, and a B16 head in front of me when I think: "Vtec oil line kit-$60 for earls, Dowls-$15, Cam Gears-$110-150". So that's an extra atleast $200. For that price I could just get a GSR block, not screw with the stuff and have a girdle.
So my question basically is do I eally need adjustable cam gears? If so why is this swap at all popular if it would be cheaper to use a vtec block? Thanks
#4
Re: LS/Vtec Help
Adjustable Cam gears, who fed you that line of ----?
I've put an easy 20k on my LS VTEC and have my stock B16 cam gears still.
The skinny of the LS VTAK Yo! (proper one)
LS Block
GSR or Type R girdle
B16 B18C or B16B Oil Pump and water pump (yes they are all the same check the part Numbers!!!!)
B16, GSR or Type-R head (B16B or B18C)
Type R Timing Belt
Dowl machining on head with blockoff for oil passage
Oil feed for back of head to get that mad VTAK working
LS Rods or ones upgraded in strength (replace the rod bolts stock B18A/B's are ---- for revving)
Pistons of your choice
I recommend using a stock HG
ARP headbolts
Goodluck
I've put an easy 20k on my LS VTEC and have my stock B16 cam gears still.
The skinny of the LS VTAK Yo! (proper one)
LS Block
GSR or Type R girdle
B16 B18C or B16B Oil Pump and water pump (yes they are all the same check the part Numbers!!!!)
B16, GSR or Type-R head (B16B or B18C)
Type R Timing Belt
Dowl machining on head with blockoff for oil passage
Oil feed for back of head to get that mad VTAK working
LS Rods or ones upgraded in strength (replace the rod bolts stock B18A/B's are ---- for revving)
Pistons of your choice
I recommend using a stock HG
ARP headbolts
Goodluck
#6
Re: LS/Vtec Help
Originally Posted by BigJ
Adjustable Cam gears, who fed you that line of ----?
I've put an easy 20k on my LS VTEC and have my stock B16 cam gears still.
The skinny of the LS VTAK Yo! (proper one)
LS Block
GSR or Type R girdle
B16 B18C or B16B Oil Pump and water pump (yes they are all the same check the part Numbers!!!!)
B16, GSR or Type-R head (B16B or B18C)
Type R Timing Belt
Dowl machining on head with blockoff for oil passage
Oil feed for back of head to get that mad VTAK working
LS Rods or ones upgraded in strength (replace the rod bolts stock B18A/B's are ---- for revving)
Pistons of your choice
I recommend using a stock HG
ARP headbolts
Goodluck
I've put an easy 20k on my LS VTEC and have my stock B16 cam gears still.
The skinny of the LS VTAK Yo! (proper one)
LS Block
GSR or Type R girdle
B16 B18C or B16B Oil Pump and water pump (yes they are all the same check the part Numbers!!!!)
B16, GSR or Type-R head (B16B or B18C)
Type R Timing Belt
Dowl machining on head with blockoff for oil passage
Oil feed for back of head to get that mad VTAK working
LS Rods or ones upgraded in strength (replace the rod bolts stock B18A/B's are ---- for revving)
Pistons of your choice
I recommend using a stock HG
ARP headbolts
Goodluck
2. b16, gsr, and hype-r all use the same tooth water pump so that's ok...oil pump is a lower volume on earlier dohc vtec's. 96+ oil pump is the one to get.
3. Gsr timing belt is the closest one to use (and usually more available). LS blocks are a different deck height that gsr/hype-r's, so that's where the slight timing difference will show itself. IT WILL BE OFF...unless dialed in with cam gears.
4.Dowel machine work is not needed these days...get a set of Golden Eagle offset dowel pins and kiss machining goodbye. Only thing that needs to be done to the head is tapping the return passage and plugging it. Make sure it's at least flush if not sunk into the head or you'll have a problem.
5. Use gsr headstuds or bolts. Most people opt for headstuds, but if you're staying n/a the normal bolts will work fine.
I do reccomend the arp rod bolts as well and a stock LS multi-layer steel headgasket.
#8
Re: LS/Vtec Help
well after makeing at last 5 of these beasts both for na and boost this is what i have come to see as what is "needed"
96+ oil pump it does not have to be vtec they are the same from 96 on higher volume.
arp rod bolts unless you don't plan on reving past say 7,500 but really it's cheap insurance
dowels are optional you could dril the head your self if you have a good eye
cam gears are not needed. you will make good power with out them, but i must say you will make more power with some good tunning with them.
and also to save money you can run without any problems the ls timing belt and water pump. I always have.
arp head studs are nice but not needed unless you plan on boosting. I always used them due to honda head bolts being near the same price
oh and gsr girldle is not need and is a unlessary and you will have to have the block borelined after just stay away from that.
and if you doubt my info screw you my last ls/v is still running with over 20k and 3 years of racing with a cr of 12.5 for a daily driver.
ran 12.8 all day@105mph and a wooping 40-44mpg
96+ oil pump it does not have to be vtec they are the same from 96 on higher volume.
arp rod bolts unless you don't plan on reving past say 7,500 but really it's cheap insurance
dowels are optional you could dril the head your self if you have a good eye
cam gears are not needed. you will make good power with out them, but i must say you will make more power with some good tunning with them.
and also to save money you can run without any problems the ls timing belt and water pump. I always have.
arp head studs are nice but not needed unless you plan on boosting. I always used them due to honda head bolts being near the same price
oh and gsr girldle is not need and is a unlessary and you will have to have the block borelined after just stay away from that.
and if you doubt my info screw you my last ls/v is still running with over 20k and 3 years of racing with a cr of 12.5 for a daily driver.
ran 12.8 all day@105mph and a wooping 40-44mpg
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