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jdm h22 help?

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Old 02-22-2007, 07:17 AM
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Default jdm h22 help?

hi just a quick question i can get a deal on a h22a4 and im putting it in my crx and was wondering what the differnce was for the jdm h22a and if i should just spend the extra $400 on the jdm h22a
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:14 AM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

lol u mean an USDM H22a1 and a JDM H22a jdm higher compression farther redline USDM lower compression.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:12 AM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

h22a4 came in the 5th gen ludes, so its obd2.

get the jdm h22a, it most likely has a lot less miles and hopefully is obd1.

you're already gona have enough trouble converting your obd0 to obd1.
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:09 PM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

Get the Hasport harness, get Enjo mounts and have your front and rear mount bushings mocked up and made out of steel so they are solid, driveshaftshop stage 3 axles, and you should be set. I got the JDM H22A closed deck 10.6:1 engine with the M2B4 O.E LSD trans. The motor lasted 1 year before the #3 cylinder imploded from the 115 oct, and too much ignition advance. I'm fully built "Ross Pistons, Eagle H Beams" and forged head internals with L.A Ductile Iron sleeves at a compression on 9.2:1 now. So do what you want but I prefer a closed deck with boost. But if your not going to beat on it, get the H23A and buy a complete H22A bottom end on Ebay and go that route, that will save you a bunch. I just finished my backup motor, H23A VTEC with a JDM H22A crank, and not a H22A1 or A4 cause the mains are different diameter, with LA iron sleeve replacements"$130" and $250 labor for them installed, H22A 11:1 type s rods and pistons from EBAY and Nippon. Engine dyno with Hondata S300 net 214hp with 171FTlbs of torque. So in essence it's a H22A but with the appearance of a H23 160hp at the fly. And it only costed $1600 for the complete assembly with IRON SLEEVES and not the FRM's. So when the pistons go I have a rebuildable motor that can either take the cast O.E slugs or the Forged units.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:54 PM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

Originally Posted by cardinal811
Get the Hasport harness, get Enjo mounts and have your front and rear mount bushings mocked up and made out of steel so they are solid, driveshaftshop stage 3 axles, and you should be set. I got the JDM H22A closed deck 10.6:1 engine with the M2B4 O.E LSD trans. The motor lasted 1 year before the #3 cylinder imploded from the 115 oct, and too much ignition advance. I'm fully built "Ross Pistons, Eagle H Beams" and forged head internals with L.A Ductile Iron sleeves at a compression on 9.2:1 now. So do what you want but I prefer a closed deck with boost. But if your not going to beat on it, get the H23A and buy a complete H22A bottom end on Ebay and go that route, that will save you a bunch. I just finished my backup motor, H23A VTEC with a JDM H22A crank, and not a H22A1 or A4 cause the mains are different diameter, with LA iron sleeve replacements"$130" and $250 labor for them installed, H22A 11:1 type s rods and pistons from EBAY and Nippon. Engine dyno with Hondata S300 net 214hp with 171FTlbs of torque. So in essence it's a H22A but with the appearance of a H23 160hp at the fly. And it only costed $1600 for the complete assembly with IRON SLEEVES and not the FRM's. So when the pistons go I have a rebuildable motor that can either take the cast O.E slugs or the Forged units.
thats a nice build. but i think u can push out more horse then that cause my buddy has and stock H22a just fuel upgrade and VAFC. and he dyno at 220 at the wheel. i dont knoe about the TQ, but nice setup u should of keep the H23 rods it has longer stroke. but thats my opion though.
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

220whp? on what sort of dyno? Is it a type s?

thats not even possible with a stock h22a/1
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:24 PM
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Default Re: jdm h22 help?

Mine was with a ENGINE dyno, not a chassis dyno. This was with a original setup but with a stock H22A head and not a built/ported/ higher revving motor setup. I set it up to perform at it's best/safest route but not to the point where it will blow up again.
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