Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Can anyone list the advantages and disadvantages of Iron block and Aluminum Block.
|
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
how about you do some searching
|
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
you cant do this on your own? i thought you were some badass turbo expert ::)
Alumnium blocks displace heat faster, and they are lighter. Iron is strong heavy and is cheep. |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
looking to make sick ass horsepower? then go iron.
|
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Is it really hard to figure out ???
|
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Iron, then
boost it to 20+psi |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Dart Alum block 690 BBC, 1300hp + 800hp (250/250/300) shot, split that fucker in half (Under Kracker: I'm gonna split this room in half!)
Dart Iron block 740 BBC 1500hp + 1000hp (300/300/400) shot, bitch wants MORE! |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Originally Posted by Mista Bone
Dart Alum block 690 BBC, 1300hp + 800hp (250/250/300) shot, split that fucker in half (Under Kracker: I'm gonna split this room in half!)
Dart Iron block 740 BBC 1500hp + 1000hp (300/300/400) shot, bitch wants MORE! |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Yeah, we ain't ------- around.
mid 7's on motor, 6.3-6.4's on the hose. Ever mess with a Lenco 4 speed? 3 planetarys in a row, my last suggestion dropped .1 on the sixty and .15-.18 on the ET. Just juggliing the gearing sets I turned a solid 7.10 which could hit a 6.98-6.99 and hurt parts, into a solidly consistant 6.95 car. Clutch never hooks in first gear, so the 1-2 gearing really matters on a nitrous IHRA Top Sportsman car. 250 hit on the launch, next 250 if she ain't hopping, then right before 1-2 gear change you hit the 300 button. Gotta keep the clutch slipping until mid second gear when the weights finally apply max force. My 1.5L = 91 CID, the 740 / 8 = 92.5 CID per HOLE! |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
I know the answer already... i just want to see some opinion from the Honda areana.....
|
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
we are not the honda arena, and we are not retarded ricers.
Originally Posted by Mista Bone
Yeah, we ain't ------- around.
mid 7's on motor, 6.3-6.4's on the hose. Ever mess with a Lenco 4 speed? 3 planetarys in a row, my last suggestion dropped .1 on the sixty and .15-.18 on the ET. Just juggliing the gearing sets I turned a solid 7.10 which could hit a 6.98-6.99 and hurt parts, into a solidly consistant 6.95 car. Clutch never hooks in first gear, so the 1-2 gearing really matters on a nitrous IHRA Top Sportsman car. 250 hit on the launch, next 250 if she ain't hopping, then right before 1-2 gear change you hit the 300 button. Gotta keep the clutch slipping until mid second gear when the weights finally apply max force. My 1.5L = 91 CID, the 740 / 8 = 92.5 CID per HOLE! |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
no way, track is unsafe for those speeds.
Plus DICKass Weinle won't prep the track, not even for his son's Pro Stock car. Detroit, only place for true power. |
Re: Iron Vs. Aluminum Block
Aluminum, weight for weight, is ten times stronger than steel or iron. That means you have to use (guessing here) 2.5 times the volume of aluminum to equal the iron block's strength. Keep in mind most modern designed blocks, which are stronger due to solid design and bracing, are aluminum. A recent iron block should be even more so... just try to take the broad view.
Aluminum does a lot better job absorbing detonation: the blown alky cars that start fiddling with nitromethane run aluminum rods, because regular steel units just transfer vibrations to the rod bearings + crank. This also applies to aluminum blocks. Those are the two (three?) points I think get glossed over. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:54 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands