as long as the block guard doesnt block the hg water holes you should be fine

 

here we go again! me and my friends been using blockguard for a while with no problems... I use the GE style and he use the KMS one, I blew my motor twice, and my sleaves are still great, so I guest the blockgaurd protect the sleaves... I would see more of problems drilling holes in your block about block posting. so what nascar uses it? arent Gm blocks strait cast Iron? honda block cast aluminum. aint nothing wrong with a blockguard, a few people have negative results does not mean they are bad.

 

The problem with block guards, is nobody installs them right. Technically you are suppose to weld them in place then have the cylinders rebored and redecked. Getting a chunk of a aluminum (blockguard) and pounding it down your block will distort your sleeves. The problem with the old block guards is that they reduced the cooling in the upper portion of the cylinder which caused over heating issues. Most block guards made now have lots of cooling passages so its fine. Nascar use to use open deck/aluminum blocks back in the day. Now they use cast blocks. Like I said.. on a d-series pinning is the way to go, filling on b-series blocks, and if you want to use a block guard install it right and it will be fine.

 

It is my impression that you are supposed to grind/file a block guard according to how it fits your block... until it slides down with just a slight press with your finger tips. Then tack weld it in to keep it from moving around. Supposedly with this method you shouldn't have to have it machined afterward. But the block I plan to use has a fairly noticeable score on one of the cylinders so I figure I'll have a bore/hone done after the guard install just to be on the safe side.

I guess since I already have the BG I will just plan on using it. I have been considering adding some small holes to the BG to further decrease the chances of overheating due to poor flow.

 

Sell the BG and get some devcon aluminum filler!

 

But why do you prefer filler?



This is a pic of the same design BG I have. I have marked with red dots where I am considering adding small holes ... unsure if that would even be helpful.

 

I have similar block gaurd, except mines alredy came with the holes drilled in it. I tapped it in with a rubber mallet, and use a punch to tapped it down around the cylinders snug. 3/8 inch deep to allow coolant to be able to cover it then I took my block to a machine shop and bored over to 81.5mm... my friend did his the oposite, he tapped his down flushed with the deck and honed his cylinders, stock bore, either of us have issues with them.