JDMFantasy2K

Okay I think we're all tired of noobs asking LS/VTEC questions every week so I feel its time for an archive.

Lets start by saying don't post unless you've actually built, tuned, or worked on an LS/VTEC. We don't need this thread to be overcome by 16 year olds who think they're internet engine builders. So without anymore bullshit lets begin.

List
Block used
Head used
Aftermarket parts
Conversion machining and accessories (oil lines, dowel pins)
Tuning utilized
How long its lasted


Then if anyone wants to list optional stuff (trannys, rod bolts) feel free to do so. Oh and dyno graphs and pictures are great too. Lets treat this thread like a "how to build a turbo kit" thread. And then let the intense flamming of noobs begin. And i'm not adding anything personally cause i've never built one of these beasts :P

reactone

I just finished my LS/Vtec Setup after many months of ECU woes. Since there really isn't a great stock ecu to run an LS/Vtec, a chipped P05/6/28 or P72/75 will be a big plus. I guess you could use a P28, but the maps aren't really scaled for the added hp/displacement from what I've heard (ie, i could be wrong). Anyhow heres the list of what I have used:
B18b block/rotating assembly, etc
B16 head, Intake manifold,Throttle body
TD-44 Distributor (B16)
I rebuilt my motor using late model integra water pump/oil pump and stock ls rods/pistons
I used a Cometic Multiple layer Steel HG made for LS/Vtec (Larger Dowel pin holes) I don't recall thickness, but any MLS HG would work, I think you may have to enlarge 2 of the dowel pin holes though.
Install Kit: Golden Eagle makes a kit that gives you everything you need to pull off the LS/Vtec, which, if you're reading this, chances are this will be easiest for you. Personally, I pieced together my own kit, which includes the Head Gasket, an oil tee fitting that goes where the Oil pressure sensor is, a braided steel oil supply line for the head, a plug to plug the unused oil passage in the block, and custom made dowels to mate the head to the block.
I also replaced the head bolts with ARP's as well as the rod bolts, which seem to be the weak point.
I am currently running a chipped P06, Vtec added, with Crome and a P30 basemap (diabled O2, knock sensor, checksum routine).
So far it has lasted 300 miles (barely broken in!!)
It feels good, very torquey, and it'll chirp the tires from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd.
I am also running a dual diaphragm pressure plate and heavy duty clutch from Mike @ LSD. It always feels like the clutch needs bleeding, but I think its just the DD PP, but it grips like a ----------er.<--This was future planning for my turbo setup. hope this helps.

ososlohatch

no way you chirp them into second with a ls/v ... wowzers thats ill bro !

Slo_crx1

It's not in my car, but I built it for my friend's '90 hatch.
B18a1 block, pr4 (LS) rods with ARP rod bolts resized and pr3 (b16) pistons on top.
Gsr water pump, gsr timing belt, Golden Eagle gsr headstuds.
B17 head (basicly the same as a b16 pr3 head) and intake mani, mani has a gude tb on it as well with stock b17 camshafts and an ebay cam seal.
Oil pump from b17 (you guys are gettin' the picture...he destroyed his b17 so we used the old stuff for this motor), Golden Eagle head dowel pins, ebay 2.5 foot braided oil line with sending T and plug for the head.
Fel-pro MLS b18a1 headgasket (with dowel holes reamed out with a uni-bit run backwards then finished with a dremel )
b18a1 obdo dizzy, modified to fit and running a pr3 BRE style. Drilled and tapped a spot on the back of the block to fit the knock sensor as well (something he absolutely wanted to have). Runs disabled 2nd o2, but still retains the stock primary o2.
Walbro 190lph fuel pump, RC 310cc injectors (his idea, not mine )
Ys1 cable tranny with stock lsd and Clutchmasters stage 3 6 puck disc.

We haven't actually gotten any dyno #'s on it, it's torquey...real torquey. The cams are killing us, I think a good cam/spring/head port combo would liven this thing up even more, but I don't see that in the cards for this motor. I would say a rough guess would probably be around 180hp to the front wheels, enough to make it fun but not enough to make it fast.

*edit: almost forgot...been running like that for about a year with no problems, maybe has about 9,000 miles on it.

JDMFantasy2K

i knew slo_crx1 would post

now time to hear from JD and mista bone, i'm sure they have some valuable knowldege info for this thread.

Slo_crx1

Lol...guess I'm getting predictable now in my older age.
C'mon people, I know they're are more ls/v's running around here...let's fill this thread up. Or anything you've got...tips, tricks, hints, etc.

rudebwoy

integra B18A BLOCK
CIVIC B16A HEAD

pistons CP 81.5MM 9.0.1 compression
rods EAGLE H beam
studs b18 ARP
bearings ACL standard
Girdle GSR
head gasket Cometic
dowel pins KMS
oil line 6 an line with greddy sandwich plate

HEAD: crower spings and retainers, Ferrea .5 over mm valves, skunk 2 cams
been running for a year daily driven abused ripped, rev to 9600rpm on every race street or track
23 psi sc61 tuned on Hondata S300.
a lot more ---- but it will take all day to list. ask me question if you would like to know more useful answers.
I've built 2 of these that are still running on stock sleeves with only a blockgaurd.
next build in the winter will be 85mm golden eagle sleeved. just waiting for my bonus.

JDMFantasy2K

ooh a blockguard, kind of a taboo here at HMT. Glad to hear they've worked well for you, solid setup

reactone

Well, I'm not here to argue with you, but it will chirp from 2nd to 3rd. :P
I should have figured you would come around and post more useless ---- as usual.
I forgot that I also did the block fill in anticipation of the onset of future boost. Kind of another pseudo-HMT taboo.

JDMFantasy2K

only because of Hotrex's failure, then everyone started to question the fad