HMT Style LS/VTEC?
#1
HMT Style LS/VTEC?
Hey guys, before you say it - yes I searched. I got 10 pages of results...none relevant to what I'm looking for. What I'm looking for is the opinions of HMT members who have built an LS/VTEC.
I searched over at H-T and it was mostly all motor related. Oh joy, thats not what I'm going to use mine for. Looking a little deeper they started suggesting stuff like GSR oil pumps and water pumps...okay seems like a good idea. Then they said OEM Honda bearings are a MUST. Alright, I can understand that but I'm a little iffy on it. I've seen HMT members use like ACL and stuff with no problems...and Jeff with the NAPA rings, that was awesome.
What really bothered me was when they started saying that the block needs to be bored and honed by a machine shop, and a main girdle upgrade from GE is also a really good idea, but then you also need an align hone and some other garbage.
The final thing that pushed me into making this post was the fact that they said you MUST have the entire rotating assembly balanced.
Okay what the ----. Help me out here HMT, is that ---- nescessary? Do I really need to have the block bored and honed regardless, and then the entire rotating assembly balanced?
HMT has sort of a reputation of doing ---- yourself for free or cheaply. The local machine shop here really blows ***, they don't know ---- about imports. The last time I took them a honda cylinder head (b16) they told me the third rocker for VTEC is just useless crap that is an engineer's worst nightmare. Then the person I sold the head to said the resurfacing job wasn't level and generally sucked. I want to avoid a trip to the machine shop if at all possible.
So I'm asking HMT's opinion - is it possible to build an LS/VTEC without making a trip to the machine shop? Do I really need to have the rotating assembly balanced and the sleeves bored? I know I'll need them honed since I'm planning on going to forged pistons...but I've been told I can do a ball hone myself with a simple drill attatchment from autozone. Is that true?
If I do have to take it to a machine shop, does anybody know of a reputable one in the midwest? Indianapolis or Chicago area?
What would you guys consider as "required" work for an LS/VTEC that won't self destruct in a few thousand miles?
I searched over at H-T and it was mostly all motor related. Oh joy, thats not what I'm going to use mine for. Looking a little deeper they started suggesting stuff like GSR oil pumps and water pumps...okay seems like a good idea. Then they said OEM Honda bearings are a MUST. Alright, I can understand that but I'm a little iffy on it. I've seen HMT members use like ACL and stuff with no problems...and Jeff with the NAPA rings, that was awesome.
What really bothered me was when they started saying that the block needs to be bored and honed by a machine shop, and a main girdle upgrade from GE is also a really good idea, but then you also need an align hone and some other garbage.
The final thing that pushed me into making this post was the fact that they said you MUST have the entire rotating assembly balanced.
Okay what the ----. Help me out here HMT, is that ---- nescessary? Do I really need to have the block bored and honed regardless, and then the entire rotating assembly balanced?
HMT has sort of a reputation of doing ---- yourself for free or cheaply. The local machine shop here really blows ***, they don't know ---- about imports. The last time I took them a honda cylinder head (b16) they told me the third rocker for VTEC is just useless crap that is an engineer's worst nightmare. Then the person I sold the head to said the resurfacing job wasn't level and generally sucked. I want to avoid a trip to the machine shop if at all possible.
So I'm asking HMT's opinion - is it possible to build an LS/VTEC without making a trip to the machine shop? Do I really need to have the rotating assembly balanced and the sleeves bored? I know I'll need them honed since I'm planning on going to forged pistons...but I've been told I can do a ball hone myself with a simple drill attatchment from autozone. Is that true?
If I do have to take it to a machine shop, does anybody know of a reputable one in the midwest? Indianapolis or Chicago area?
What would you guys consider as "required" work for an LS/VTEC that won't self destruct in a few thousand miles?
#2
Re: HMT Style LS/VTEC?
a vtec oil pump.
vtec head
conversion dowels
oil supply line for head
ls head hasket
head studs
b18c timing belt
hizone it your self to get a cros hatch and asemble the ******
thats all id use that s all i was gonna use, until my car got stolen.
vtec head
conversion dowels
oil supply line for head
ls head hasket
head studs
b18c timing belt
hizone it your self to get a cros hatch and asemble the ******
thats all id use that s all i was gonna use, until my car got stolen.
#4
Re: HMT Style LS/VTEC?
also depends on what water pump you use for the timming belt. i think it go's.. ls water pump, use the ls timming belt... vtec water pumps, use the a gsr timming belt.
as for the oil pump i would upgrade to a vtec or b20 one.
i also read somewhere that using the gsr block girdle is a good idea. but in doing this you need all the parts to make it work. such as the pan, pick-up, bolts and what not.
i guess it strengthens up the bottom end.
as for the oil pump i would upgrade to a vtec or b20 one.
i also read somewhere that using the gsr block girdle is a good idea. but in doing this you need all the parts to make it work. such as the pan, pick-up, bolts and what not.
i guess it strengthens up the bottom end.
#5
Re: HMT Style LS/VTEC?
flat rate style would consist of nothing more then a vtec head,vtec oil pump,ls head gasket,and your oil line, got my friends oil line at a semi truck air hose place made for like 17 bucks hella cheap and good. my old ls vtec was this setup only the pistons were cryo treated and the rods shot peened, but i still had stock rod bolts and revved to 8k.
#7
Re: HMT Style LS/VTEC?
if your going turbo i wouldnt use them, u dont need to take it to 8200 anyway stock with turbo it would be just fine shifting out in the high 7k's, all motor wise i would definatly replace the rod bolts.