alright so i have about 50 miles on my rebuilt ls/vtec.... before initial startup i used the cylinder leakage tester and found no problems what so ever, so started the car, well it keep sounding like it had an exhaust leak, but the more i listened to it i realized that it was coming from the head, so i put my cylinder leakage tester back on and saw that the air wasnt coming through the valves.... it was actually coming up through the other spark plug, what the ----, theres no way this could happen with a good head gasket right? i also noticed the radiator would empty quick as ----.

now i do have arp headstuds and i THINK i had torqued them to 85, im not sure, but when i put the torque wrench on last night thats where it clicked at.... so i ordered a new headgasket and am throwing it back on tonight.... anyone think its something different?

 

sounds feasable. re-tourqe the head after a normal warmup, try that.


this was a NEW hg right? oem?

 

new oem yes, what are the torque specs for a b16 head with arp studs? just so i get it right

 

First step torque all to 22 ft/lbs, then the second step is 58-60 ft/lbs. Same as OEM.

 

what about the hex'd studs?what do i torque them to before i put the nuts on, i heard 15?

 

I just stop once I feel it has reached the bottom, you don't want them in there too tight.

 

Once they bottom out they wont go in any further

The lube you used on your studs makes a difference in the torque specs as well

I went to 70ft/lb's with motor oil as lube

 

sorry guys, when i said studs i meant the nuts too, like the specs for the nuts and the studs sorry

 

also, after how many miles should i +5 the torque