bipedbear

alright so i have about 50 miles on my rebuilt ls/vtec.... before initial startup i used the cylinder leakage tester and found no problems what so ever, so started the car, well it keep sounding like it had an exhaust leak, but the more i listened to it i realized that it was coming from the head, so i put my cylinder leakage tester back on and saw that the air wasnt coming through the valves.... it was actually coming up through the other spark plug, what the ----, theres no way this could happen with a good head gasket right? i also noticed the radiator would empty quick as ----.

now i do have arp headstuds and i THINK i had torqued them to 85, im not sure, but when i put the torque wrench on last night thats where it clicked at.... so i ordered a new headgasket and am throwing it back on tonight.... anyone think its something different?

88crxSi

sounds feasable. re-tourqe the head after a normal warmup, try that.


this was a NEW hg right? oem?

bipedbear

new oem yes, what are the torque specs for a b16 head with arp studs? just so i get it right

Tom-Guy

First step torque all to 22 ft/lbs, then the second step is 58-60 ft/lbs. Same as OEM.

bipedbear

what about the hex'd studs?what do i torque them to before i put the nuts on, i heard 15?

djfob

I just stop once I feel it has reached the bottom, you don't want them in there too tight.

W O T

Once they bottom out they wont go in any further

The lube you used on your studs makes a difference in the torque specs as well

I went to 70ft/lb's with motor oil as lube

bipedbear

sorry guys, when i said studs i meant the nuts too, like the specs for the nuts and the studs sorry

bipedbear

also, after how many miles should i +5 the torque