H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
06-12-2007, 03:33 AM
#1
3.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,605
H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
Well my car is due for a tune up after the dyno run. The guy stated that I may need colder plugs, I know that plugs opperate best at 700 degrees, and my plugs look a smidge on the black side with a AFR at 11.3 at WOT from 4.5K on up. So we installed a new set gapped at .45 and let the boost go two 28psi from the initial tune of 18psi at 392hp, I made 473hp but it blew a little black smoke out the exhaust "Too RICH". We then measured the heat soak on the motor and it read around 170' on the intake mani. Let it cool for about 30 min then done another run but set a lil leaner to when the AFR dipped then spiked out at the again 11's and lost torque at the 5200rpm mark. Checked the plugs and still a black haze on them. HERE's the Question
?? Should the plugs have a slight hint of white on them even if runing Leaded CAM2 110 oct race fuel. Light down the spark plug holes show alot of black sut sittin on top of the pistons. NEVER HAD KNOCK BTW. WHAT the part Number for the colder plugs for a H22A. I found a set around $87 but they dont list the part number just say 2 steps down from stock. A lil help and a ---- hair of hazing will be appreciated.
?? Should the plugs have a slight hint of white on them even if runing Leaded CAM2 110 oct race fuel. Light down the spark plug holes show alot of black sut sittin on top of the pistons. NEVER HAD KNOCK BTW. WHAT the part Number for the colder plugs for a H22A. I found a set around $87 but they dont list the part number just say 2 steps down from stock. A lil help and a ---- hair of hazing will be appreciated.
06-22-2007, 09:59 AM
#4
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,967
Re: H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
Your running leaded gas on the dyno tune? I wonder how that guys wideband is handling that. 
$87 for a set of spark plugs? Is someone on crack?
You don't know what a good plug should look like? look at NGK.com, the beginning of a haynes manual... ect...
Never had knock? do you have a det can or something to be sure?
$87 for a set of spark plugs? Is someone on crack?
You don't know what a good plug should look like? look at NGK.com, the beginning of a haynes manual... ect...
Never had knock? do you have a det can or something to be sure?
06-22-2007, 11:19 AM
#7
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
Originally Posted by widebody93
Well my car is due for a tune up after the dyno run. The guy stated that I may need colder plugs, I know that plugs opperate best at 700 degrees, and my plugs look a smidge on the black side with a AFR at 11.3 at WOT from 4.5K on up. So we installed a new set gapped at .45 and let the boost go two 28psi from the initial tune of 18psi at 392hp, I made 473hp but it blew a little black smoke out the exhaust "Too RICH". We then measured the heat soak on the motor and it read around 170' on the intake mani. Let it cool for about 30 min then done another run but set a lil leaner to when the AFR dipped then spiked out at the again 11's and lost torque at the 5200rpm mark. Checked the plugs and still a black haze on them. HERE's the Question?? Should the plugs have a slight hint of white on them even if runing Leaded CAM2 110 oct race fuel. Light down the spark plug holes show alot of black sut sittin on top of the pistons. NEVER HAD KNOCK BTW. WHAT the part Number for the colder plugs for a H22A. I found a set around $87 but they dont list the part number just say 2 steps down from stock. A lil help and a ---- hair of hazing will be appreciated.
?? Should the plugs have a slight hint of white on them even if runing Leaded CAM2 110 oct race fuel. Light down the spark plug holes show alot of black sut sittin on top of the pistons. NEVER HAD KNOCK BTW. WHAT the part Number for the colder plugs for a H22A. I found a set around $87 but they dont list the part number just say 2 steps down from stock. A lil help and a ---- hair of hazing will be appreciated.
06-22-2007, 12:20 PM
#8
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,890
Re: H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
I would go out on a limb here and say both you and your "tooner" are morons. First off, any respectable dyno guy knows how to read plugs properly, and according to what you have written, your car shouldn't even be pulling past 10psi with that plug gap. FYI, black haze around the top portion of the plug deals with part-throttle low load areas of the rpm range. The only way to tell how rich or lean a plug is running is by looking into the well of the plug itself at the base of the porcelain. Different race fuels leave different color rings at the base, some grey some brown depending on the type of fuel. Also...the only way to tell if a plug's heat range is too hot or cold is by checking the annealing band after a wot pull and see where it sits on the ground strap. Once plugs reach operating temp, they should "burn off" all excess traces of black carbon build up at the tips of the plugs. Also look at the electrode of the plug...if there is a black ring about 1mm down from the tip of the electrode, take out some timing. If there are black pepper speckles on the plugs, you're mildly detonating...take out some timing. As for plugs, use a regular flat electrode NGK plug. If you do need one that's a step or 2 colder, get a higher number value. Never use race plugs in a daily driven setup, they're designed for high rpm use all the time. Street driving on them will foul them out too quickly and sometimes even melts the electrode and ground strap. Avoid a recessed electrode whenever possible as well, it keeps the spark from where it should be in the first place...in the combustion chamber. Even a set of NGK Iridium plugs for my b16a didn't cost over $48, so $87 is smoking crack. And please don't try to argue spark plug tech with me...I am the plug ****.
lol ownage lol
06-22-2007, 01:15 PM
#9
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 624
Re: H22A Spark Plugs 1000cc
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
I would go out on a limb here and say both you and your "tooner" are morons. First off, any respectable dyno guy knows how to read plugs properly, and according to what you have written, your car shouldn't even be pulling past 10psi with that plug gap. FYI, black haze around the top portion of the plug deals with part-throttle low load areas of the rpm range. The only way to tell how rich or lean a plug is running is by looking into the well of the plug itself at the base of the porcelain. Different race fuels leave different color rings at the base, some grey some brown depending on the type of fuel. Also...the only way to tell if a plug's heat range is too hot or cold is by checking the annealing band after a wot pull and see where it sits on the ground strap. Once plugs reach operating temp, they should "burn off" all excess traces of black carbon build up at the tips of the plugs. Also look at the electrode of the plug...if there is a black ring about 1mm down from the tip of the electrode, take out some timing. If there are black pepper speckles on the plugs, you're mildly detonating...take out some timing. As for plugs, use a regular flat electrode NGK plug. If you do need one that's a step or 2 colder, get a higher number value. Never use race plugs in a daily driven setup, they're designed for high rpm use all the time. Street driving on them will foul them out too quickly and sometimes even melts the electrode and ground strap. Avoid a recessed electrode whenever possible as well, it keeps the spark from where it should be in the first place...in the combustion chamber. Even a set of NGK Iridium plugs for my b16a didn't cost over $48, so $87 is smoking crack. And please don't try to argue spark plug tech with me...I am the plug ****.
Dam...the plug god has spoken! 
