widebody93

Ok I have the timing wheel on the crank and I'm lost right now. I have the gage on the retainer tip and the valve isnt open and I have it set to 0 at TDC on the exhaust cam. At what degree should the exhaust cam start to open. And at what degree should the intake valves start to open at BDC. Anyone know how to set these up cause the head has been milled and the block has been decked, and the O.E. settings are way off now. Thanks Widebody93

turbohf

i highly doubt anyone here will know how to degree a cam...

widebody93

I'm sure that someone has fully built their DOHC motors and did have the head and block shaved for them to be square and flat. I'm just confused on the wheel part and which cylinder they consider to be #1 with the crank pully. Would it be the one closest to the timing belt? When I look at the cams in perspective to the indicators on the crank timing wheel the one closest to the dizzy is the closest but off by close to 3 teeth. The motor ran ruff then we put a new timing belt and kept everything TDC and then tightened the tensioner and turned the crank by hand and now it wond start. So when I look at the Cranks wheel I'm lost to why it wont start. Has anyone ever checked their cam timing using a crank/cam indicator? PLEASE SOMEONE HELP. I also bought the new Honda tuning mag and they have an article in it but its still confusing to me. I have pulled the head several times before and never had an issure like this until I had it sleeved and decked.

J-MAN

i was just reading on HT about degreeing the cams and i am so confused also. i am probly just gonna take it to a shop and have them do it. i can do it with the motor in the car right, just more difficult?

Bone1

how much was head and block milled?

Diameter of the cam gear.

With those numbers you will be able to detrime how many degrees to retard your cams.

With what your trying to do, you need the cam specs from the maker.

widebody93

The head was milled 30 thousanths and the blocks was decked 15 thousanths from what my machinist could remember. I have the stock JDM H22A cams in still but with skunk2 cam gears, I have tried the O.E. cam gears and still unsuccessful. Then I read the article and I put the Skunk2's back on and tried the crank/cam wheel and thats where I am at now "CONFUSED"

widebody93

H22A 9:1 compression 88mm bore, iron sleeves, ferrera stainless valves. Here is the compression test results from the distributor side to the timing belt side in order. #1 135 psi. #2 145 psi. #3 140 psi. #4 145psi. Isnt that enough compression to at least fire up the motor I know it is but GOD it wont run after I tightened the timing belt. I got to get a friend over to check for spark again I guess. Cause I have plenty of fresh air, SMELL 110 oct like I was huffing straight from a pump, and not for sure about the spark now. I have a cranecams CDI ignition box and a cran cams fireball coil. Anyone one else with a H22A willing to do a compression test on their motor and post it here.

Guy-Fast

#'s are low but itll start on that



those #'s are like a tired sohc or ls motor

widebody93

This is a fresh motor and the rings have not seated yet. It's only ran for probable 5 min. since Jan 11th. I had to put the off to the side for a bit cause of all the hours at work but now it's slowed down and I'm back on it. It could also be the cam timing opening and closing the valves at the wrong time not letting the compression peak out. MAYBE

Bone1

brain fart, after millage you have to ADVANCE the cams.

without knowing the diameter of the cam gears, I'd say your 4 degrees retarded on both cams.

That alone would give lower cranking psi.