fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

so last night i finished up the dpfi to mpfi swap in my hatch and put in the 450's. i also just got done swapping the d16a6 in it which was running fine in my hatch after i put in my socket and started using turboedit with the ostrich.

so last nite i took it out for a test spin, and yes i switched the injectors to 450's on turboedit. the car was actin kinda funny, for 1k-2k it was good, then 2k-3k it would kinda bog, the 3k-4k it was good, the 4k-5k it would bog, the 5k-6k it was good kinda like that anyways. i think this is due to my cam timing being a little off as you may have seen in my other post.

then as i'm heading home the temp gauge starts goin up, up, up. and as i'm pulling in the driveway its all the way up top and it was barely runnin. when i cut it off it made this weird kind of ticking sound and cut off really weird. it kinda bogged, then shut off instantly. i pulled off the oil cap and it was steamin a little, then i pulled off the valve cover and nothing looks bad on the top side, but i'm worried about the valves alot.

i found the leak in the coolant system, it was on the firewall where the coolant feeds into the car right under the throttle body. i can fix this by pulling the one off my other crx, but i'm worried that i may have done something detrimental to the head or engine overall. when i get home later i'm gonna pull the plugs and look in there with a flashlight to see if i can see anything.

anybody done this before and whanna tell me if you think i fucked something up really bad.

thanks

and i'm a ------- retard for not catching that leak earlier :1

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

I left my car running in the driveway on a hot summer day and went inside. I came out like 10-15 minutes later and steam was shooting out every crack of the front end. I shut the car off and thought it was done for. Temp gauge was maxed out. I found out that a rusty fan wire broke plus I was a little low on coolant. Let the car cool completely down, fixed the wire, top off the radiator. Started it up and it ran fine. That was about 8k miles ago and still no problems... If it didn't overheat for too long and there was at least some coolant running through the block it should be ok, but cross your fingers. Good luck.
-Andy

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

NO. You are a ------- retard only because you didn`t stop right when u see the gauge goes up. :l

You might get lucky or, look for oil in coolent or coolent in oil. most of the time it is a wrapped head or blown headgasket.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

well there aint much coolant left, and yeah i'm really just a retard overall :1

but thanks for the help guys, it's been chillin in the garage for a day now so i think its probly cooled off :P

well i'll let ya know how it goes after i fix the timing and the leak

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

well i pulled the plugs and they were white on the tips, that means coolant was burning right? also, i couldn't see anything down in the cylinders, but it did look like some oil had gotten in, these are new pistons (20 miles old maybe) and they had a grey black tint.

well i fixed the leak, reset the timing and filled back up the coolant. i tried cranking the car for a little while, but no luck. i pulled the plugs again and they were soaked, mostly with fuel, but i'm thinking some of it was coolant. i also opened the radiator back up and was able to fill it up a little more, seems like the water was down to about the level of the headgasket, so that was a good indicator too. i'm just about positive i blew my headgasket, but i'm gonna do a leak down test tonight and check it out.

is overheating the most common way to blow a head gasket?

also, what does the white on the plugs mean?

thanks

edit: also i was getting cel codes 1, 10, and 14. i reset the ecu and then it only said 10 and 14 which is eacv/iacv and the iat sensor. i just did the dpfi to mpfi and swapped some of the plugs around cause some are the same but different colors and now i've got all the cel's to go away, but the plug going into the iacv is a green one and not the clearish like i thought it was suppose to be.

anybody got any info on the plug colors?

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

Overheating is usually the result of blowing a headgsket, not the other way around. The headgasket probably went first. I don't know about coolant leaving the plugs white, but running lean can. Did you have any detination on your test drive? Maybe a lean mixture cause some detination that lifted your head and either blow the HG or kept it from sealing. I would remove the head and take a look. Good luck.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

It goes both way, buddy
:P

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

yeah that's kinda what i was thinkin. i do have arp head studs if that makes difference, but the head gasket was a not so great quality one from topline automotive, it was a metal one though. anyways, i think the leakdown will tell me alot and then i'll pull off the head, just don't wanna be pullin off the head for nothing.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

alright well the compression test results: 150-170-170-150

pretty obviously a blown headgasket. so i pulled the head, only took about an hour well here's what the head and block looked like, i think they'll be just fine.

Attachment 35947
nothing here, i cleaned up the deck with a paint scraper from walmart, making sure not to dig into the aluminum

Attachment 35948
here's before i cleaned it up

Attachment 35949
cleaned the surface with the putty knife, then i took a rag and removed the leftover gasket and the little bit of carbon buildup on the valves

you can't really see in the pics, but about 1/2" away from the edges of the cc, the metal is brownish, is that just from the rust and ---- inside the cooling system?

also, i really need to get new plugs, should i go ahead and get colder plugs since it'll be turbo in a month?
the old plugs where white tipped, w/ black electrodes probly from burnin the coolant, and runnin a lean mixture, then overheating. i need to do a tune cause i opened up the ports a little bit and have the bigger injectors now. need to get the o2 sensor up and running tomorrow, then get a cable for datalogging.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

150-170-170-150 doens`t nessery means it is the HG :X
could have done some other test before u pull the head oh well :1

since u have the head out. replace the Hg and don`t forget to have teh head re-surfaced.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

Great advice there.It only costs like 20-40 bucks and is entirly worth it to know you have a perfectly flat sealing surface.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

well i had this done only about 20 miles ago, so i really don't think it's necessary. i think the compression on a brand new engine should be 170 all across or a little closer than that. i went around the gasket and measured with my digital calipers, and it was a little less at the ends

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

so what is that crap between the cyl and the block ?

also, use 240cc injectors when you're NA, why use 450's !?

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

the crap between the block and cyl is devcon liquid aluminum.

the only reason i was using the 450's is cause i had to wire for dpfi to mpfi and already had the plugs that worked with the 450's so i decided to wire those in to make it easier. also wanted to make sure they worked. i will be turbo very soon and decided i'd go ahead and get this outta the way.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

gee wizz ma, why did i overheat? :P

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

Hey hotrex, any overheating problems? how about you crx304? Didn't think so.
Any engine will overheat with no coolant in it! Read the whole thread. He had low coolant and a bad leak.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

thanks, i hate when people just read the first and last post and make a comment. crx304 says he's been runnin 18psi or so daily w/ no overheating issues. coolant leak owned me, not the aluminum that will actually allow more heat to dissipate into the outer block.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

lap the head anyway. overheating could cause it to wrap even when u just had it done 2 minutes ago.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

welp the head is back on anyways----, why do i always have to do everything right away and think i know it all? i got it all back together and was tryin to crank it and just threw on the compression tester for shits and 1 is still readin 150, so i went to bed and said ---- you to my car.

i'm starting to think i fucked up a valve or the valve seats, shoulda just poured some water in my ports while i had the head off. what other tests could i do to find out what could be wrong.

also i'm now not getting spark >:( gotta ---- with that tomorrow. first i'm checkin out the cap and rotor, if they look fine i'm guessing it'd be the ignition module because that has happened twice before on other hondas. last time i took it to autozone and they tested it and the meter said it was fine, but the guy just gave me the new one anyways and it worked right away, 190 dollar part for free woot-woot

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

Leakdown test.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

yeah i redid the comp/ leak test today and got 165-170-172-167. i only turned it over like 3 times when i checked number one the other night. the compression seems to be fine now, but i'm not gettin spark. i'll be out of town for a week but getting back on this next monday. please keep postin suggestions

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

That compression doesnt sound to bad.Fix the spark issue then see how it runs.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

yeah, i just gotta figure out what my spark issue is. it was running pretty good before the overheating occured. i doubt my cap and rotor just went out that quick. i'm thinking it's either gotta be the ignition module or the ignitor. gotta figure that out on tuesday when i'm home

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

also this may sound stupid, but i have done worse things...check your firing order and there are two ecu fuses in most hondas, at least in both my accords there are. one in the engine bay and one by the kick panel. they are 15's. check all your fuses. in addition in my f22b1 turbo cd7 i blew a radiator hose right after i bought the car. story goes, i put the turbo kit in for the kid, he ruined the car, i bought cheap, was driving home, let the turbo timer do its thing, then blew a hole in the upper radiator hose. luckily nothing bad happened to my new baby since i did a compression test and it was (from 1-4) 200 195 205 200. not bad for a car that ran 12 psi on uber and like 8 psi on a pos map bypass/fmu combo. i am currently keeping it at 7 psi until i drop this block into my cb7 and swap the beast im picking up today in the cd7. wow this went off topic.
back to the topic. if your headgasket is new, and your pistons and rings were freshly rebuilt, you will get low numbers on the initial compression test. like 160's. also, it would have been smart to have the head resurfaced since you will be boosting.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

well i figured out why i wasn't getting spark. the little thing that pokes into the ignitor was broken off so the circuit was broken. i went and got a new cap and i'm gettin spark now, but the car isn't startin still. when i try to crank it, like every 3 times it'll do this really fast clickin noise from under the dashboard on the driver side.

i am getting a check engine in the gauge cluster, but there is no cel code, the light just stays dimly lit?

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

ur battery is low, jump it.

Re: fuck: overheat, then ticking
 

no the battery is fine, i was jumping it off while all this was happening. just tried to crank it again and the clicking noise is just really fast. also, i've been getting this noise from the fuel pressure regulator, like a vacuum leak. i pull off the hose that goes to the intake manifold and the leak noise is still going, but i cant feel anything from the hose.