Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
02-08-2008, 03:33 AM
#303
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,490
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
bad news.... my vitara was making a funky knocking noies.. for about 5 k miles now and its bin getting louder so i stoped driving it and i noticed my oil psi went down to like 55 psi at 3k rpm no load.. so i pulled it out and the two outer rods are a little loost so im gonna plasti guage them tomorrow see the clearaNCE.. the crank looks good and feels smooth no scoaring or anyting really.. for now i swapped in a p'n'p z6 and that ---- i fired up its pressuriizing th cooling sysytem. 
---- ---- ----.. so ii can probably drive it wiht the radiator cap loose.. ill keep updated i think im gonna get honda bearings if i need to after i figure out the clearance on the crank and let you guys know..
---- ---- ----.. so ii can probably drive it wiht the radiator cap loose.. ill keep updated i think im gonna get honda bearings if i need to after i figure out the clearance on the crank and let you guys know..
06-25-2008, 02:12 PM
#305
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by fasterthanueg
just got my brothers done: b18a1 pr3 head eagle rods wiesco 8.5:1 25psi and 100 shot direct port should be fun
06-25-2008, 08:40 PM
#306
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,906
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
FYI
Boost controler messed up on fully built engine with block fill
Mac truck turbo full boost(50+psi?)
block fill saved it!
Block had to be re honed and it did warp a little but only between the bottem of the fill and the bottem om the sleeve. We where able to rebuild it.
Boost controler messed up on fully built engine with block fill
Mac truck turbo full boost(50+psi?)
block fill saved it!
Block had to be re honed and it did warp a little but only between the bottem of the fill and the bottem om the sleeve. We where able to rebuild it.
06-26-2008, 05:41 AM
#307
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,490
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
hi this is a update on the status of my vitara build i dint update it now i found this tread and now updating to my previous post from a while back
i checked the clearinced all of them in spec .0012-.0018 on the crank and .0014 .0017 on the rods
seems good so i checked the oil pump(EBAY POS) its scuff marks insde so i inspected and cleaned my oem pump and ported the inlets and outlets and swapped it in and then swapped back my vitara motor back in..any ways long story short that ----- started purgin on me after i overheated it 2 times more wiht the oem radiator (cuz in the ---- hatch i had a EGAY RAD aluminum one and that pos leaked on the lower core meets the tank pos and overheated many times) now cuz i crashed it a little before the vitara turbo swap and the rad is craked and glued but still leaks i guess so now i got the head resurfaced and ARP studs SCE copper HG and it purges less turbo spools much faster but still dump the water slowly but shuley and get kept on getting worse so i drove this ----- to AZ and back 1240 miles round trip got my AZ licence and plates total process to get the PO box and register and licence too 2 hours!! and cost 130$ about and 165 in gas so now im immune to cali smog BS any ways i got a mad tight JDM vtack b20/b16head 
building a turbo kit for it now check my sig for details on the cars status now
SO TO SUMMERIZE MY VITARA EXPIRINCE IT WAS PLEASENT!! JUST NEVER BUY EBAY RADIATORS AND OIL PUMPS MAKE SHURE TO HAVE GOOD OIL PUMPS AND RADIATORS DONT OVER HEAD A GAZZILION TIMES LIKE ME
>>>my vitaraa motor is torn apart i got a y8 block Z6 oil pump and p/u tube custon dip stick hole for y block.. and now im swapin the internals also i got std bore vitaras my motor was .040 :1
ya first build joint hmt not too long now i learned alot.... and the motort is going into my brothers eg hatch hes paying me some cash so im giving it to him too busy doing otehr ---- but i still want to go back to sohc turbo... the b just dont feel right.. i just want to see how it will feel wiht boost cuz the sohc has better highway MPG and its a SOHC (OG HMT FACTOR) and SMOKE THAM K<H<B ricers <<<<D
i checked the clearinced all of them in spec .0012-.0018 on the crank and .0014 .0017 on the rods
seems good so i checked the oil pump(EBAY POS) its scuff marks insde so i inspected and cleaned my oem pump and ported the inlets and outlets and swapped it in and then swapped back my vitara motor back in..any ways long story short that ----- started purgin on me after i overheated it 2 times more wiht the oem radiator (cuz in the ---- hatch i had a EGAY RAD aluminum one and that pos leaked on the lower core meets the tank pos and overheated many times) now cuz i crashed it a little before the vitara turbo swap and the rad is craked and glued but still leaks i guess so now i got the head resurfaced and ARP studs SCE copper HG and it purges less turbo spools much faster but still dump the water slowly but shuley and get kept on getting worse so i drove this ----- to AZ and back 1240 miles round trip got my AZ licence and plates total process to get the PO box and register and licence too 2 hours!! and cost 130$ about and 165 in gas so now im immune to cali smog BS any ways i got a mad tight JDM vtack b20/b16head building a turbo kit for it now check my sig for details on the cars status nowSO TO SUMMERIZE MY VITARA EXPIRINCE IT WAS PLEASENT!! JUST NEVER BUY EBAY RADIATORS AND OIL PUMPS MAKE SHURE TO HAVE GOOD OIL PUMPS AND RADIATORS DONT OVER HEAD A GAZZILION TIMES LIKE ME
>>>my vitaraa motor is torn apart i got a y8 block Z6 oil pump and p/u tube custon dip stick hole for y block.. and now im swapin the internals also i got std bore vitaras my motor was .040 :1
ya first build joint hmt not too long now i learned alot.... and the motort is going into my brothers eg hatch hes paying me some cash so im giving it to him too busy doing otehr ---- but i still want to go back to sohc turbo... the b just dont feel right.. i just want to see how it will feel wiht boost cuz the sohc has better highway MPG and its a SOHC (OG HMT FACTOR) and SMOKE THAM K<H<B ricers <<<<D
06-26-2008, 05:03 PM
#308
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
I see a lot of cooling problems because intercoolers block radiators. I'd rather run a smaller IC than a larger radiator - the larger radiator doesn't do anything if it's still blocked by the IC.
07-05-2008, 01:41 AM
#310
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 701
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by Zeniceguycrx
FYI
Boost controler messed up on fully built engine with block fill
Mac truck turbo full boost(50+psi?)
block fill saved it!
Block had to be re honed and it did warp a little but only between the bottem of the fill and the bottem om the sleeve. We where able to rebuild it.
Boost controler messed up on fully built engine with block fill
Mac truck turbo full boost(50+psi?)
block fill saved it!
Block had to be re honed and it did warp a little but only between the bottem of the fill and the bottem om the sleeve. We where able to rebuild it.
I just rebuilt my A6... the one in the origional "how-to" post.....
Long story short:
100+ mph @ 15psi and the main relay malfunctioned... HELLO fuel cut... BROKE ALL 4 Wisecos... (all the piston skirts cracked in the same place). but I just rehoned the block and put Vitera slugs in the old block after gauging the bores for egging and there was less than .001" after 20,000 VERY HARD miles and destroying $400 pistons.
Also Agreed on the Slim pusher fan operating at all times.
Dr. Mike
