I just thought all these links should be on here so people dont have to go searching around for them, or asking questions that have been previously asked

Block Filling and Block Posting..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=49850.0

How mush filler to use, and what kind(product)..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=51107.0

Hotrex's write-up on filling a block..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=49459.0

Block Filler Materials..
https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/...?topic=50949.0

 

maybe i missed the answer, but do you have to definitely get the cylinders bored out after filling it? will there be any ovaling/movement of the cylinders? is there a way to stop this from happening? can you just fill, hone, assemble, and go?

 

Some people have recommended it to have it bored and hone afterwards if you have the bling bling, but not sure if its quite necessary. I mean I can't imagine the aluminum epoxy expanding so much against the cylinders causing it to distort or become less than the ideal in shape. If the epoxy was to expand you would think that it would expand in the area of least resistance which would be UP into the air and NOT against the cylinders. So my answer would be boring is NOT necesssary.

But if you are posting it, I'd say get it bored out and hone.

 

or maybe there is a way to keep a spare set of pistons in there to keep it from distorting??

 

The idea of honing after pouring with the crank and head torqued to spec is the same idea as torque plate honing. The block is going to shift very minutely with the torquing forces, and you want your epoxy to set under those circumstances.

After that... well, its just redneck common sense to machine a surface during rebuild.

 

im going to be doing this soon to a d16z6 block. i found this link on a HMT thread.

http://www.applied.com/catalog/ma/ca...&s=1810022&r=0

its for devcon, which i plan to use. but it says its good to 2500

is that enough? or is this a different kind or devcon than the one sold from grainger.com?

thanks.
Zach

 

How hot does your engine coolant get before your thermostat opens up? 170-190 deg F depending on commonly available thermostats.

Normal WOT EGT sit at 1450 deg F, 200-250 deg F above the melting temperature of the cylinder head and pistons, but they like it just fine.... the trick is to have something with plenty of mass to absorb and move that heat away from the head and the pistons. The metal in the engine itself, engine oil, coolant, it radiates some of the heat off the engine, sends the rest out the exhaust, etc.

As long as you don't start overheating, I'm pretty sure you won't overheat your epoxy.

 

thank you

 

found block filler for cheaper.

http://www.superkleendirect.com/inde...PROD&ProdID=64

 

darksol2005- thanks....thats awesome.

i had another question about block filling. i was reading a post on a 4000 hp drag built integra...and saw the custom block...with no cooling jackets around the cylinders. which made me think...i know its not possible for a daily driver....

but if you were building a track only car....could you fill the block all the way and not drill any coolant holes?