Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
07-09-2005, 11:18 AM
#131
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Yes and no. Or maybe just no.
Water has four times the cooling properties of alky. The combustion chemistry of alky *DOES* render a large porion of it into water in the first two combustion steps which goes on to cool the later, longer chain reactions which are the ones that normally lead to detonation... but...
That alky is expensive. Water is free - I'll most likely be stealing it from water fountains to avoid having it show up on my water bill (an extra $7, boo hoo). I might even go so far as to run water from mud puddles through coffee filters. I'm not right in the head like that.
I'll dilute the water with a dash of acetone to cut surface tension so that it sprays correctly from a fuel injector instead of in a straight stream like an oversized squirtgun. If I can get the local chem supply to come off some hydrazine, or failing that get Scav-Ox which is 35% hydrazine, it's dirt cheap and we all know how groovy rocket monopropellants are. Up to 20mL pure per gallon of gasoline renders increases in power of 10%, and it's chock full of N and H atoms by weight which are easy ignition high energy reactions that convert promptly to water and suchlike, sidestepping a lot of the previously mentioned as bad, m'kay?, long chain molecules in the later combustion reactions.
Or that's the theory, anyway.
Water has four times the cooling properties of alky. The combustion chemistry of alky *DOES* render a large porion of it into water in the first two combustion steps which goes on to cool the later, longer chain reactions which are the ones that normally lead to detonation... but...
That alky is expensive. Water is free - I'll most likely be stealing it from water fountains to avoid having it show up on my water bill (an extra $7, boo hoo). I might even go so far as to run water from mud puddles through coffee filters. I'm not right in the head like that.
I'll dilute the water with a dash of acetone to cut surface tension so that it sprays correctly from a fuel injector instead of in a straight stream like an oversized squirtgun. If I can get the local chem supply to come off some hydrazine, or failing that get Scav-Ox which is 35% hydrazine, it's dirt cheap and we all know how groovy rocket monopropellants are. Up to 20mL pure per gallon of gasoline renders increases in power of 10%, and it's chock full of N and H atoms by weight which are easy ignition high energy reactions that convert promptly to water and suchlike, sidestepping a lot of the previously mentioned as bad, m'kay?, long chain molecules in the later combustion reactions.
Or that's the theory, anyway.
07-10-2005, 02:20 AM
#132
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Hello, jello!
I just poured a dirty **** of a D16A6 block. I did things just a teensy tiny bit different from crx304, but essentially the same.
- I poured my epoxy a 3/8" into the top of the water pump hole (requires delicate taping *from the outside* so you can remove/dremel tape later); I did this because I wanted to support the bore a little further down. I have a 5/8" gap between the top of the epoxy and where the head surface will be. I plan to drill some smallish connecting holes between topside and the water pump hole I partially occluded.
- I used the whole pound of epoxy. YAAAARR!!1
To do over again, I'd probably use a pound and a half, and fill a tiny portion of the lower cooling jacket as well. I'm not too worried about cooling for my setup - water jacket won't see much more load than if the engine was NA - but that might be pushing the limits of what a conventional setup can handle. If you aren't planning to inject 25-50 percent as much water as fuel under boost, you might want to think about it before following that bit of advice. It's probably overkill.
I just poured a dirty **** of a D16A6 block. I did things just a teensy tiny bit different from crx304, but essentially the same.
- I poured my epoxy a 3/8" into the top of the water pump hole (requires delicate taping *from the outside* so you can remove/dremel tape later); I did this because I wanted to support the bore a little further down. I have a 5/8" gap between the top of the epoxy and where the head surface will be. I plan to drill some smallish connecting holes between topside and the water pump hole I partially occluded.
- I used the whole pound of epoxy. YAAAARR!!1
To do over again, I'd probably use a pound and a half, and fill a tiny portion of the lower cooling jacket as well. I'm not too worried about cooling for my setup - water jacket won't see much more load than if the engine was NA - but that might be pushing the limits of what a conventional setup can handle. If you aren't planning to inject 25-50 percent as much water as fuel under boost, you might want to think about it before following that bit of advice. It's probably overkill.
07-24-2005, 02:12 PM
#136
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 302
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by absolutezroo
newb question... What are GX pistons? (awaits flaming)
75mm bore but with a 21mm wristpin making them perfect for an LS rod swap.
I don't know the p/n but you can find it with a quick google search. They're like $28 a piece from Majestic.
07-24-2005, 03:28 PM
#138
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
13010-PDN-A00 is the STD size. I have 13020-PDN-A00 which is .25 mm oversize. They have a 5.5 cc dome, smaller than the 7.2 cc P29/PM7 ZC piece. With A6 block, Z6 head, PDN piston, and Z6 headgasket I'll be at 12.2:1 CR - fun, fun, fun!
Support boost, pfft. Boost, biscuit, bullshit - pick one and eat it because none of them has anything to do with mean combustion pressures aka POWER.
Simple metallurgy: A piece of aluminum (piston, in this case) is half as strong at 600 deg F as it is at room temperature. By the time the crown of it is exposed to combustion temperatures, it's getting a little soggy.
Car will be a non-IC water injection baby. Combustion temperatures will be significantly less than traditional setup - inject enough water and it forms droplets coating the combustion chamber; as soon as the AF mix combusts it absorbs the heat and turns to wet steam. My stock cast pistons - a fine quality OEM casting, btw - will be stronger at the temps I run them than a forging at the temps a traditional forced induction setup sees.
Support boost, pfft. Boost, biscuit, bullshit - pick one and eat it because none of them has anything to do with mean combustion pressures aka POWER.
Simple metallurgy: A piece of aluminum (piston, in this case) is half as strong at 600 deg F as it is at room temperature. By the time the crown of it is exposed to combustion temperatures, it's getting a little soggy.
Car will be a non-IC water injection baby. Combustion temperatures will be significantly less than traditional setup - inject enough water and it forms droplets coating the combustion chamber; as soon as the AF mix combusts it absorbs the heat and turns to wet steam. My stock cast pistons - a fine quality OEM casting, btw - will be stronger at the temps I run them than a forging at the temps a traditional forced induction setup sees.
07-29-2005, 07:34 PM
#140
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,800
Re: Filling Block... How To.... UPDATED
Originally Posted by badtoys
Hy @all from Europe
Which one is better,the devcon liquid aluminum or moroso Block filler?
Which one is better,the devcon liquid aluminum or moroso Block filler?
devcon can be heat cured and ready to go real quick
moroso says to room temperature cure it for 28 days, eep.
