Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

I need to know how to do this, either an Extrude hone or a Flex hone, whichever works best, I am building up my D16 and would like to know how I can hone the engine by myself because I dont want a shop to do everything for me.

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

oh I can tell you how to do it ghetto if you want ;) Its not the right way but I've done 3 motors will a ball hone and a hand drill and they're still holding up to date

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

well, extrude honing is an entirely different concept (its a way of porting things). When you buy a hone i think it actually comes with instructions. Just be sure to spray some lube every once in a while (wd40 or something like that), and keep it moving so you dont end up making it uneven. Im sure someone else has more experience so dont go run out and just do it like i said ;)

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

WD40 is a solvent, don't use it to hone the walls...

But as ghetto said, just keep moving while doing it, just a light cross hatching is good.

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

if you're rebuilding your motor check it for out of round cyl's.

might have to get it bored .050 anyways. (includes hone usually)

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

how much does it cost to get it bored .050 over + hone? i'm on a budget kinda.

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

how many miles did the motor have? if you measure the cylinders for roundness and they're staright then just a quick hone to get rid of any carbon on the cylinder walls or whatnot and call it a day. my uncles a mechanic and i knew a mechanic also and they told me i could just use 400grit sandpaper and ruff up the cylinder walls, they said two things: there has to be some roughness in the cylinders at first so the rings could wear to the shape of the cylinders and roughness to remove any foreign coating on the walls. and when you break in the motor, dog the ---- out of it is the best way. i saw it in a motorcycle shops' engine break in write up here on this site once. it's in the fi faq. :-*

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

What do you mean by "dog the ---- out of it"? Do you mean beat the hell out of it? That's how I break in my bike everytime I rebuild it. One warm up cycle, let it cool down 100%, warm it up 100% and beat the ---- out of it. Works like a charm.
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Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

I don't care what the new trends are, 2-strokes own all. 8) I used to break in my banshee the same way

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

Damn right. 8) As a matter of fact, I think I'll go take a ride on one right now. :P
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Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

What tools can I use to see if the cylinders are straight? The engine has about 130,000kilomiters on it, so about 80,000 miles.

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

Oh ---- you. Well I'm going to go find a nice 18 year old Fresman with low self esteem and a tight body to ride. 8)

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

at 80k your fine. ball hone it and call it a day. If you want to go by the book have it machined and get os pistons

Re:Engine Cylinder Hone, Any Writeups?
 

From endyn:
It's necessary to provide some texture to the cylinder walls to enable the piston rings to properly seat. It'd not be necessary for pistons, assuming that the original rings were retained. If the bores have no taper using your methods of measurement, the cylinders could be readied with a whirlybird hone, or a dingle-berry hone if you prefer. Both have small balls out on the ends of many small flexable wires. If you are careful to not allow it to stay in one location, you can "dress" the cylinder walls sufficiently to make the rings seat properly. I don't want to mention this, but in emergencies, these dingle-berry hones have been used to clean the walls in engines that still reside in the car, crankshaft and all. You absolutely must protect the crank and bearing areas so no particles from the cylinder walls or the hone are washed down. Plastic and duct tape work pretty well for this. The honed cylinders also need to be cleaned very carefully prior to assembly. For a quick and dirty job, no pun intended, make a wall scrubber from a reshapped coat hanger with several layers of BOUNTY paper towels taped to the hanger at the upper end. You can use some carb and choke cleaner at first, then do it with hot water and soap and finally with WD 40 on the hanger towels. Use new towels for each step, so you may need at least one big roll. Bounty is the best towel, so don't fool around with anything else, especially the blue "mechanic's" towels. All that you are doing in this operation is removing the glaze that builds on the cylinder walls, so don't go wild. Another little tip is to make sure that you duct tape the old headgasket to the deck. This will prevent the little balls from "polishing" the area around the bores. If a drill motor and a good Sunnen hone is available with the correct grit stones for the ring material , go with it. Remember that almost constant fluid flow is mandatory with this type of hone, so be prepared to use a tub to collect it. In the 60's, we put a small fuel pump and an oil filter in the tub and the lubricant flow was continuous. Remove as little material as possible and remember that keeping everything clean is mandatory.

http://theoldone.com/archive/doug_on...tock_bores.htm