cardinal811

On my other post I was asking for help because I'm getting fuel back wash into my intake manifold. One guy suggested that since I have sleeved my block and used another head that my cams can be off a bit because of the decking of both surfaces. So to check this I set my cams TDC and checked the crank which ='d TDC. I think my cams are not opening when the injector is firing thus causing fuel in my intake manifold. The motor is a H22A thats the exact stamp on block='s JDM. SO to check this I advance the intake cam right"Skunk2 gears"? And to keep the valves from hitting do I retard the exhaust or turn boths cams in same direction with the same degree to keep them true. This is a nightmare. Hell I may be off a tooth, but the arrows on cams are facing straight up to the center of the cam caps and the #1 cylinder closest to the timing belt is TDC which also means the one opposite is also TDC. Hook this CRACKER up.

Slo_crx1

After reading this post in conjunction with your other one, the problem may be in the way you're setting the cams. Cam timing at tdc should have 2 marks that line up flat across the top of the head not 100% on this, but there are on b-series dohc motors), which will probably look slightly angled at the "straight up" position. I found a write up during a quick search that may help you out...http://www.salinaracing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=9...Good luck!

cardinal811

So whats the answer? If you andvance the intake do you retard the exhaust to make sure the valves dont hit or do you advance in intake and advance exhaust to keep the valves from hitting? Please guys all I need is a simple and true answer.

Slo_crx1

Block being milled with a decked head should only be off a couple degrees, not enough to idle completely shitty. Even when trying to adjust them back you always have to start with the gears at tdc. Afterwords when you get it tuned you can start to adjust the gears for maximum power...pretty much pointless to try without a dyno.

IowaTCoupe

you can adjust the cams seperately... If you advance the intake cam gear, you do not HAVE to do anything w/ the exhaust.

When you turn/adjust the cam gear... you are turning the cam shaft a couple degrees or so... NOT the gear. The gear will still be TDC, but the cam shaft turns inside the gear w/ the bolts.

But like they said... it's pointless trying to adjust them without a dyno.

cardinal811

Ok I advnced the intake cam 10* can unplugged the injectors and turned the car over and it acted like it wanted to run. So I connected the injectors and turned the car over and it tried to start so I gas it some throttle and vroom it FIRED UP but I had to continue to throttle it. This tells me that I'm off a tooth on the intake cam at least one tooth. So I advanced the exhaust cam it started it and it ran a lil better so I might be off a tooth on both cams by one at least. Makes no since but at least it ran as lond as it had throttle. Wide band was reading 15+ but I am also running the Hondata S300 on a P28 fuel map. So thats my weekend plan to set the cams accordingly to get the settings back to 0* on the gears. Thanks guys I'll be sure to post more ?'s if they arise.