twin911

I have to throw a new clutch into my d16y7 daily driver this weekend. I searched but i couldnt really find much, is there a write up anywhere or anything like a walkthrough? I have a prety good idea of what needs to be done, i just want to make sure i dont hit a tricky part and waste time playing arround with it, i really dont want this to take forever and i have never swaped a honda clutch before. any info greatly appreciated

primercrx

have fun, drink beer. what way do you want to take the tranny, with the engine or through the bottom? what car?

Zeniceguycrx

open hood, disconnect everything from the tranny that u can reach from above(even the 3 bellhousing bolts)
go under the car and remove the 2 cv shafts and 2 linkages., put a jack under the engine to suport it and the remove the 2 tranny mounts. lower the tranny and undo the 2 other bolts holding the tranny in and the wiggle it off
(undo the pass side mount from the tranny not the car)

i did this on monday and many time befor, u can do it in a garage in less then 2 hours

twin911

Its comming out the bottom, 97 civic sedan

Its also a jdm d16, im assuming they are the same as any other?

cberman

I just did it in my y8...might want to arrange for some transportation in case it doesnt go as smoothly as expected. I used this guide primarily:
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=139802

95civicLX

why the hell would he be taking the engine out of the car to replace the clutch? :1

(when i wrote this there was only 1 reply)
basic instructions...

disconnect battery

remove air box or intake, anything thats in your way

drain tranny fluid

jack up the front of the car, or if you have a lift, this will be easy.

remove front wheels

take off the ball joint nut, then finger tighten it back on and beat the control arm with a hammer until the ball joint pops out....this way you dont damage the threads or the boot by using a pickle fork.

take off the axle nut and pop the axles out.

disconnect and remove the starter.

remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the tranny (make sure no one pushes the clutch down after this step)

remove the other 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket to the tranny.

disconnect all wiring harnesses

remove the flywheel cover

remove the shifter rod, and support (one is a 10mm, the other is the "bitch pin" which isnt so bad if you have a hammer and a 1/4mm punch)

support the transmission with a jack, find some way to support the motor too. (blocks of wood, jackstands, a hoist...once you remove the tranny the engine will only be held in the by the upper drivers side mount and the lower torque mount.)

remove the mount bolts (one 17mm upper, 3 17mm torque mount, and i believe 2 17's and 1 19mm on the rear mount)

then remove the bolts that bolt the transmission to the block. lower the tranny/engine slightly to the passenger side, and it should pop out.

remove the pressure plate and clutch...

then reverse.

shouldnt take more than 3 hours.

(when i did mine, i used a "whizzy wheel"/"cookie grinder" which is just a 2" mild abrazive disc made by 3m to take the blue hot spots off the flywheel, and give the new clutch a fresh surface to grab...worked great, no problems at all.)

i might have left something out....but its pretty cut and dry, just alot of steps.

have fun.

twin911

Beauty well see how it goes

Zeniceguycrx

you might need a j bar to undo the cv axs

Donald125

special tools included 10mm 12point socket, ball joint seperater.

-You don`t need to take out the axle nut, just loosen the lower ball joint and swing the hub outward with the axle. Buy yourself a ball joint seperater will make it easier, or just hammer the side of the LCA to shock it loose.

-If you can not take out the pin that connect the shift linkage and the tranny within 5 minutes. DO NOT WASTE your time, just go ahead a undo it at the shifter, it is holding on by a 12 mm bolt and nut.

-rear motor mount and t-bracket can stay, just remove the two 19mm and one 17mm bolt on the bracket.

-If you need to take out the flywheel bolts and the flywheel just keeps on spinning, bolt a 12mm combination wrench to the block and put the open end side against the nipples on the flywheel, it work as a lock so it doens`t move.

-lube everything up nicely when your putting it back together.

-clutch cover bolt needs to be at 19ft/lb

-make sure YOU tighten all the bolts, not the shitty friend of yours.

-when you are filing up the tranny, it would be easier if you feed it by the VSS hole. It is holding down by one long 10mm bolt, not the small ones., it takes 1.5QT to fill but I would put two just incase it leaks

the whole job should take 2 hours or less depending on ur SkILlZ good luck