Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

Hey.. im removing my crankshaft to replace it, but i cant get the pully off it.. i took the bolt off, but how do u get it off without the use of a special tool.. k thanks.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

i know i need a SST, but the store is closed lol and i want that bitch off now....

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

dammit.. and i have to take off the tranny to get the crank out huh..... ?! >:(

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

Got a picture?You removed the bolt retaining it on and it wont pop off?You dont have a puller?Try tapping it off with a rubber mallet or a dead blow?

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

yep, just pull the whole damn motor. then go score a used motor. you gotta take the flywheel off too ;)

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

Just get a long block like we talked about.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

ahhhhhhhhh.. the tranny is going to be ------- gay to pull off. especially by myself. with no tranny jack..

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

I wouldn't suggest what you're doing. Get a used engine and be done. It's so much more work to replace a crank, when you could pick up a used engine for 200-300 bucks and be done.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

Learn to edit your posts, don't make 3 posts with one line each. :1

Just pull the whole motor. You are going about it all wrong trying to do it in the car.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

------- pulling the tranny is easy. Ive done it like 10 times on my celica. with no trans jack. your going to need a cherry picker though. Basicly.

pop the hood
take your slave cylender off of the engine and the tranny but dont take it off the hydraulic line, leave it still hooked up but remove it from the engine and transmission via the 2 bolts and the few holding the line down on the transmission
unscrew your vss cable and unhook the plug next to it.
take the shift linkage cables off.
take whatever ground wires off of your transmission
make sure its not bolted to anything but the engine
you loosen the lugnuts
loosen your axle nut
jack the front up
take the axle nuts off
drain your transmission fluid or you will be in for a supprise when you take the axles off
take the tie rod bolt off, take the bolts out of a arm on the bottom of the steering knucke on both sides
push down on the a arm to pull the knucle out of the arm
take the plastic covers off if they're still on
unbolt the lower cross member from the frame. you can worry about taking off the bolts to the mount later
take all of the bolts out of the flywheel cover. and the 2 lower transmission bolts while your down there
hook the engine up to the hoist make sure the hoist is holding the block up
take the 2 upper bolts holding your transmission to the block
take the transmission mount bolt out on the drivers side fender well
slowly lower the hoist
pull on your transmission to pop it off. you might have to shake it around alittle bit. and you might want to put some plywood under it incase you drop it so it doesnt nail the concreete

WHEN YOUR DOING THIS MAKE SURE YOU NEVER PICK IT UP OR SUPPORT ANY WEIGHT ON THE GEAR SELECTOR ARMS. if you bend them your ---- will not shift right. and its not hard to bend them. and if you bend them they're like 40 bucks from toyota.

and when you go to put your tranny back in while you have it out. you seirously have to hulk that bitch back up in there and line it up in the splines. so make sure you ate your wheaties.

thats about it. Dont ---- with changing your crank out. youll spend as much on a new headgasket bearings and your crank than you would on a long block that works.

if you want to pull the whole thing. you can at once. right out of the top. just take all of your harness off. do what i just wrote but leave the transmission bolted up. take your exaust mani off. and your radiator out. then the engine mount bolt and just pull the whole damn thing out. (wich would be the easyest way to go about it IMO.) Oh, and if your going to do this. Just take your whole damn hood off.


I'm not just making up ----. ive been there

Attachment 35645
spun bearing (can you find hte civic coil pack in this picture)
Attachment 35646
JAY DEE EM long block i coped for 600 shiped to my work
Attachment 35647
Attachment 35648
bent shift arm picking the transmission back up to put it in.
Attachment 35649

have fun

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

Hey man. Thanks for the advice/help. i kinda already knew how to do the tranny thing, but i have a question. on the passenger side axle.. did u unbolt that bracket (i circled it in the picture below) and then just pull the axle out? is that the only thing holding it in there? and yea i removed the A-arm so it can move. and was it in there just like the drivers side ( a little tought to pull out)? Thanks..


http://i1.tinypic.com/rviqah.jpg

oh and if you think you were holding a spun rod bearing, you sould see the one i spun lol..

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

that brackets a pain in the ass. just pull it off. you kinda have to spin it. theres a pin in it. then pull the axle out. its alittle tough to pull out like the drivers side

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

theres 2 bolts holding it on, and 2 engine braces (inch steel bars) in the way of one of the bolts.. i was workin on gettin it off before work though.. did you have the same situation? becase u wrote "just pull it off".. could u just pull yours out?

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

of course you take the bolts out. they should be 14's but theres also a little metal dowel to hold it in place. so you have to pull back on it alittle and twist it to get it off. those god damn intake manifold braces piss me off. mine wernt in the way of the axle though.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

alright.. dropped the tranny. removed clutch/flywheel etc. rod caps, main bearing caps etc. crank pullly, oil pump, and some other junk.. but finally got the fucker out.. (crankshaft).. sounds pretty easy.. but was a pain in the ass times 10 for sure. Anyways.. ordered a bulk of parts like. new rod bearings, main bearings, non-ac belt and removed ac comp., ps belt, spark plug wires.. neways.. gotta grab some gaskets.. but the crank is finally out. and i am so relieved.. im going to look around for machine shops/new/used cranks to throw in tomarrow.. and all next week is spring break for us high school students, so i have a gap of time to put my POS car back together.. anyways.. Thanks for the advice everyone at HMT.. even though i didnt go with the new long/short block advice.. o well.. im using plastiguage and taking my time to hopefullyu make this my reliable boosted daily driver like it was before.. Thanks.. oh here a pic of the crank just for the hell of it.. i have all my ---- i coulda take pics of but need to get to bed soon.. peace.


http://i2.tinypic.com/sm6k9h.jpg

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

You orderd rod bearings before getting your crank turned? I give your motor 30 minnutes tops before this happens again. you have to get oversized bearings afer you get your crank turned. machine shops like to have everything so they can measure everything up so its cool. thats why we said get a new longblock. that cranks going to cost you 200 bucks and you wont even be part way into it. gaskets will be 80 plus all of the little ----. and its still iffy.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

k rawr.. i dont think you've ever had crank work done.. because they can add metal to the rod journal.. heres an article.

Jim demonstrated the process of adding metal to a crankshaft rod journal. Metal is then wire feed welded onto the surface of the journal in a narrow bead, starting at one end and slowly moving across the length of the journal keeping about a 25% overlap between adjacent beads. After the metal has been added, the crankshaft is machined down to the correct size.

so yes.. i did order rod bearings before i had it machined. And an oil pan gasket is like 10 bucks lol. and oil pump is 7. And yes i bought all new seals also. no reason to be an ass hole rawr. ::)

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

save yourself the hassle. And just buy a used engine. You'll thank me later on. If not then you should be 100 percent sure of what you are doing.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

had a long conversation with a machine shop.. they'll do the work and im giving them my bearings so they can match rod and main gap as close as possible.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

rear main seal, headgasket, intake manifold gasket. exaust manifold gasket if needed. tb gasket if needed water jacket gasket. if the machineshop measures the ---- for the bearings im sure you'll be fine. but getting crank work done like that is going to be more than 200 bucks. usualy they just turn them. im not trying to be an ------- or anything. just how you typed it made it sound like you were going to take it to a machine shop have them do whatever then throw some stock bearings on. just looking out for your motor because it would suck to go through all of that twice ;)

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

lol why all those other gaskets.. i already redid the head and top end and replaced all them.. i only took apart the bottom end .

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

you might as well replace them since the motor is out. It will be a bitch to find out later that something could have been changed while the motor was out.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

u know what.. i would have replaced the engine, if when i blew the pistons i didnt replace them. But now its not worth it. i bought a new crank from autozone yesterday. it will be here on tuesday. i figured the machine shop will do it for the same price, but there's less chance of error when buying a new one. So i just went with it. and azutozone gave me $95 off because i gave them my old crank. sweet deal. :P

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

the ones from autozone are just turned with no extra material added... wich one did you get.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

dude.. it says "NEW CRANK" its a new crank.. it doesnt have to have metal added.. it is brand new from toyota.

Re: Crank PulleYYYYYYYY
 

its not a NEW CRANK. its a USED CRANK. and its not from TOYOTA. go to toyota and ask them how much a crank is. im sure they'll tell you 200 bucks :X more like 800 bucks. WHY DO YOU THINK YOU GAVE THEM A CORE. its so they can remanu-------facture your crank and sell it.

CRANKSHAFT KIT REMANUFACTURED for a
1992 TOYOTA CELICA


Item Part
No.
Warranty Core Value Unit
Price Availability
Store Web
RECON 25214 3 MO $60.00 $276.99 Store Special Order Add to Store List Web Special Order Buy Online
***IF COMMERCIAL APPLICATION, WARRANTY IS 6 MONTHS***
*** CALL 1-800-817-3266 FOR APPLICATION VERIFICATION
AND DELIVERY TIME BEFORE ORDERING ***


thats from autozones website. they dont have new crankshafts. ::)