cast Pr3 Vs. spray?
11-20-2008, 01:18 AM
#1
0.5 BAR
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 176
cast Pr3 Vs. spray?
well my ls-v's pretty much ready to be assembled. just had a few questions tho...
im using media blasted pr3's on shotpeened arp'd rods, will a napier style honda ring be the best option or with a good set of moly/ plasma moly ring pack be better? it is a n/a setup but i wanna know if anyone has sprayed these pistons before and how they did? if anything it will be a nx wet setup 75 shot MAX, of course on good fuel some 100 and good timing pulled.. oh yeah if u say just buy forged pistons; ---- you i got them in my race car, this is just a daily.
Thanks NiG-NoGGs
im using media blasted pr3's on shotpeened arp'd rods, will a napier style honda ring be the best option or with a good set of moly/ plasma moly ring pack be better? it is a n/a setup but i wanna know if anyone has sprayed these pistons before and how they did? if anything it will be a nx wet setup 75 shot MAX, of course on good fuel some 100 and good timing pulled.. oh yeah if u say just buy forged pistons; ---- you i got them in my race car, this is just a daily.
Thanks NiG-NoGGs
11-21-2008, 09:11 PM
#7
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Re: cast Pr3 Vs. spray?
Originally Posted by Turbocharged Innovation
lol still hatin on my ---- huh lol. i know u got some knowledge in that giant DOME piece of urs why don u share it fool!!!!!!!
i gots lots of knowledge, but nitrous is not in there at all.
11-22-2008, 06:06 PM
#8
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: cast Pr3 Vs. spray?
Wow that build list is backwards as ----. Your neighbor rubs off on you, n00b.
Shot peened - useless
ARP fasteners - useless
Comparing some aftermarket moly coated ring meant for quick break in on a mass production car to a stock napier ring that is still coated on a mass production car - useless.
What you need to be worried about are your piston to wall and ring end gap clearances, followed shortly after by your bore's finish. If you have a dumb machinist who doesn't know what you are talking about when you mention a hardened ring like the JEs, who understands the hone needs to be very coarse, just nod your head and buy a non-chinese moly ring. For a street car there's not going to be a large amount of difference; the biggest difference is it's going to take a lot longer for a hardened ring to seat and the bore to break in and you need to be a little gentler on break in.
As for what to spray? A stock LS rod, correctly clearanced PR3 piston build with ITR or better cam, meh, 200 shot or go home. It's what one of my friends lays down on his PR3 piston/403 cam/stock rod LS.
Shot peened - useless
ARP fasteners - useless
Comparing some aftermarket moly coated ring meant for quick break in on a mass production car to a stock napier ring that is still coated on a mass production car - useless.
What you need to be worried about are your piston to wall and ring end gap clearances, followed shortly after by your bore's finish. If you have a dumb machinist who doesn't know what you are talking about when you mention a hardened ring like the JEs, who understands the hone needs to be very coarse, just nod your head and buy a non-chinese moly ring. For a street car there's not going to be a large amount of difference; the biggest difference is it's going to take a lot longer for a hardened ring to seat and the bore to break in and you need to be a little gentler on break in.
As for what to spray? A stock LS rod, correctly clearanced PR3 piston build with ITR or better cam, meh, 200 shot or go home. It's what one of my friends lays down on his PR3 piston/403 cam/stock rod LS.
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