hondugh

i have a d16y7 block to a z6 head.. all built up basically with .75 overbore vitara low comp pistons. i had this motor in an ef and took it to a shop for them to tune it and fix an oil leak.. so i got it running wen i got it back but really rich.. i then got an edelbrock intake manifold and the car didnt idle and wen i pressed the gas it would just kinda get stuck or rev rpms by itself.. i sold that ef shel and the motor has been sitting. i pulled the edelbrock intake manifold off it and put it on my new ef with the stock d15 turboed.. i got it to run good but i noticed wen installed the intake manifold that i looked over 2 huge holes for nipple outlets.. so i blocked them and the car was running good.. i then blew the head gasket and now im throwing the built d16 into it. i have everything hooked up and all the holes in the intake manifold are capped off or to vaccuum lines.. im not using a turbo right now just going n/a for a while.. the car is doing the same thing it did b4 with this engine in my other car.. not idling.. kind of misfiring and running shitty.. sometimes wont start for a few minutes.. i have to keep it over 1500 rpm for it to keep running and then wen i rev it the car doesnt go back down in rpms right away it kind of gets stuck.. ive messed with the dizzy turning back and forth.. changed from z6 maps to y7 maps and downloaded xenocrons map that is similiar.. any tips to help me get it running plz

78NOVA

timing.....y series blocks really only need to be used with y series heads. i got a d15b2 block with y7 head and i had major timing and firing issues before i got mine to run properly. my opinion to you is to get a y8 head and be done. also y series blocks are notorious for spinning bearings and oil pump failures.

hondugh

it only has 1k miles on it. and was running pretty good with no backfiring b4 i put the edelbrock intake manifold on.. should i just ---- around with the timing things on my basemap? and if it is timing can i take all the bolts out the dizzy and turn it till it sounds ok then just go in crome and add or subtract more for how much i have to turn it from the line up holes

78NOVA

no, no, and no...

timing first needs to be fixed by firing order on the dizzy which is very easy to fix. and before that the timing marks on the cam need to be tdc with the block and crank, then youll see by what i mean firing order on the dizzy. then you can go in crome and fine tune it more.

hondugh

the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley were lined up b4 unless it has skipped a tooth but i dont think it did.. and the firing order on the dizzy is correct going liked this if i remember right

1342
-3 -4
-1 -2

78NOVA

heres another thing. what timing belt are you using? you need to have a z6 belt.

hondugh

ya i have a z6 timing belt.. i got it to run a little better, it doesnt really idle good and the whole motor shakes at anything under 1200rpm and ussualy dies under 1k rpm.. i dont have a front engine mount cuz of the lsd traction bar... i have a code 10 and 14.. intake air temp/ iacv.. i might have those switched around but i dont see how it would cause it to run shitty..
so should i try using the z6 or the y7 basemap.. thnx for ur help man

78NOVA

stock map for starters. run the z6. its a little better. try switching your wires round to fix the codes. make sure you have no codes first. then get back to me.

Tom-Guy

Well, when you run direct +12 VDC from the IACV or purge plug into the delicate resistance-measuring IAT circuitry all sorts of nifty things you don't understand happen. The IAT is likely melted and destroyed. The ECU likely ---- Q31, C16, the IAT circuit it burned out of the ECU, and sometimes it knocks out an injector driver circuit causing the ECU to hold 1-2 injectors wide open, although it doesn't sound like the latter has happened to you.

Very rarely, very very very very rarely, the ECU takes that mistreatment like a champ. IAT and ECU don't fry. But the ECu still thinks the IAT, since it's plugged into some erroneous horseshit actuator, is registering some extreme negative temps on the Fahrenheit scale, which with the engine full warm is going to skew target AFR by 10%.

Basically, friend, you don't know what you are doing. You need to go back to step ONE and verify your wiring. Check IAT. Check ECU. Replace what's totally fucked up. Try again.

78NOVA

i was on the right trail jd

he failed to mention to me the codes prior.....then i would have told him to clear the codes first. i did the same thing with the sensors and threw codes. then i had to fix my cam index and distributor.....