Long and short of it was a problem with the manual and me being narrow-minded.


Book said that the #1 plug wire goes on the cap where it is marked with a letter or number. That seemed to be the case on other ones I had. Guess this one was wrong.

The wires I had were a cheap-o set that was not cut to length well. Got a new set, and the 3rd cylinder plug wire would only reach one contact, so I just put the others in order around it. Fired fine.

 

I'd check the alternator to see what kind of power it's putting out. Sometimes when alternators go bad they actually give more power, frying ---- in it's path.

If that's not the problem, then your gay.

 

altinators have the ability to put out allot more power than they do. if it is then the voltage regulator is bad.. is it just frying the coil pack? you can check the volts by throwing a multimeter on the positive side of the battery then grounding it somewhere. if its over like 15 then you may have a problem with that.

 

I can try that but I can't get the car started to check the running volts.

I have my SRS light on the dash also. Someone said that may be a sign of an alternator problem.

 

clean your ground wires............

Shitty grounds will own you on a 10-15 yr old car.

 

Tried things suggested, and other things. See the first post for the update.

 

have you tested the ignitors? kragen has the machine and tests them for free.

 

i thought the srs light was for the airbags senors?

 

It is for supplemental reastraint system. But I have heard that a bad alternator can cause the light to go on.

 

I fried a distributor, and 4 ignitors, before I figured out that my msd 6a ignition was what causing it whenever I rev past 7000rpm . do you have any type of ignition amplifier?