Breaking in the engine
07-09-2005, 01:45 AM
#1
0.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 0
Breaking in the engine
So, I just got done rebuilding my engine after a nice over-boost experience. I got everything figured out and ran it for a minute tonight to check for leaks. I'm debating between what method to break the engine in with; the way the dealer says or the way that this guys says -
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Now, I like his method and it seems very convincing, however I'm worried about boost. I'm not tuned 100%, basically it's a pretty rich and conservative tune until I can get it on a wideband, but I'm not worried about going lean. I'm just worried that with the T25 I will get 8 psi in 3rd and 4th gear with almost no throttle.
What are all of your experiences with breaking in engines, both boosted and non. Thanks,
Colin
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Now, I like his method and it seems very convincing, however I'm worried about boost. I'm not tuned 100%, basically it's a pretty rich and conservative tune until I can get it on a wideband, but I'm not worried about going lean. I'm just worried that with the T25 I will get 8 psi in 3rd and 4th gear with almost no throttle.
What are all of your experiences with breaking in engines, both boosted and non. Thanks,
Colin
07-10-2005, 01:15 PM
#7
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,800
Re: Breaking in the engine
you can break it in just fine while having your turbo setup on there, just make it a point to try not to boost.
the biggest thing to sealing your rings is to give them rev's and let the compression of the engine bring the rev's back down.
what I did:
1. run it up to 3000rpm, slowly so you dont get into more than 1-2psi, but preferably no boost at all, let off and let compression of the engine bring the revs back down
2. repeat for 4000rpm
3. repeat for 5000rpm
4. repeat for 6000rpm
5. start over at step 1, repeat this process about4- 5 times.
6. once you get a few miles on it, change the oil to get the metal out
7. drive mildly for at least the first 500 miles.
8. rape!
Doing that I tested a COLD compression result of 195psi in all 4cylinders at about 600 miles from startup on a d16z6.
the biggest thing to sealing your rings is to give them rev's and let the compression of the engine bring the rev's back down.
what I did:
1. run it up to 3000rpm, slowly so you dont get into more than 1-2psi, but preferably no boost at all, let off and let compression of the engine bring the revs back down
2. repeat for 4000rpm
3. repeat for 5000rpm
4. repeat for 6000rpm
5. start over at step 1, repeat this process about4- 5 times.
6. once you get a few miles on it, change the oil to get the metal out
7. drive mildly for at least the first 500 miles.
8. rape!
Doing that I tested a COLD compression result of 195psi in all 4cylinders at about 600 miles from startup on a d16z6.
07-11-2005, 07:58 AM
#8
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: Breaking in the engine
No, ****, that is traditional junk long term break in method.
The guy at Mototune is right - are you going to argue with world record (bike) engine builder?
Brad Z at RLZ will link you to the Mototune guy. Are you going to argue with NASCAR head porter, his work holding several NHRA and prostock records, as well as seven Winston Cup wins? Fastest NDRA NA street class Honduh, the car in question still a porky 2000+ lbs? Considered one of the best intake manifold design guys EVAR, and inventor of the strutted piston. World record engine builder X2...
Hell, ---- those guys - you going to argue with me? As the Mototune guy stated, takes more than a little ring/spring pressure to seat them against bores - takes cylinder pressure forcing rings against bores enough for the rings to make full contact all the way around the bore. This means that RPMS MEAN ---- ALL when breaking in an engine - peak cylinder pressures occur at torque peak, not high rpms. A little light boosting, with enough fuel to keep from overheating the bores during breaking, is ------- awesome.
Healthy Honduh engines in good repair, especially boosted or high CR NA, have large amounts of blowby compared to other engines. Proportional to the power they output, I suppose, but for engine size blowby is large. Trav-***' engine pushed 425 whp @ 18 psi daily with 20 year old fucktard driving MINIMAL blowby no oil drips from vented to atmosphere valvecover. Now the T4's on will be 550+ whp with 21 year old fucktard driving - YAAAAARR!!11 That's a $7K engine, there was $15K total underhood when the car was given to me for finish assembly, tuning, break-in; it was the literal definition of my ***. I don't ---- around.
I also plan to break in the 12.2:1 CR SOHC on boost - non-IC. Now, THAT is going to be fun!
The guy at Mototune is right - are you going to argue with world record (bike) engine builder?
Brad Z at RLZ will link you to the Mototune guy. Are you going to argue with NASCAR head porter, his work holding several NHRA and prostock records, as well as seven Winston Cup wins? Fastest NDRA NA street class Honduh, the car in question still a porky 2000+ lbs? Considered one of the best intake manifold design guys EVAR, and inventor of the strutted piston. World record engine builder X2...
Hell, ---- those guys - you going to argue with me? As the Mototune guy stated, takes more than a little ring/spring pressure to seat them against bores - takes cylinder pressure forcing rings against bores enough for the rings to make full contact all the way around the bore. This means that RPMS MEAN ---- ALL when breaking in an engine - peak cylinder pressures occur at torque peak, not high rpms. A little light boosting, with enough fuel to keep from overheating the bores during breaking, is ------- awesome.
Healthy Honduh engines in good repair, especially boosted or high CR NA, have large amounts of blowby compared to other engines. Proportional to the power they output, I suppose, but for engine size blowby is large. Trav-***' engine pushed 425 whp @ 18 psi daily with 20 year old fucktard driving MINIMAL blowby no oil drips from vented to atmosphere valvecover. Now the T4's on will be 550+ whp with 21 year old fucktard driving - YAAAAARR!!11 That's a $7K engine, there was $15K total underhood when the car was given to me for finish assembly, tuning, break-in; it was the literal definition of my ***. I don't ---- around.
I also plan to break in the 12.2:1 CR SOHC on boost - non-IC. Now, THAT is going to be fun!
07-11-2005, 09:13 AM
#9
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 197
Re: Breaking in the engine
ok.... i just broke in my engine not to long ago.
this method takes longer but will give you a sure-fire break-in.
i drove around for 1,000 miles revving no higher than 4,000 RPM's with the BOV OFF. This kept the engine from boosting but still allowed me to have everything hooked up. I also kept in the stock injectors during this time as well.
- At 1,000 miles into the break-in change the oil.
- throw in your larger injectors & get your ---- tuned
- go beat the ---- out of it.
It takes an *** load of patience and self-control. I would just drive around at night time in cruise control when there were no cars on the road and put about 60 or 70 miles on it a night. It is well worth the wait especially with all the money you just spent with the re-build.
good luck.
this method takes longer but will give you a sure-fire break-in.
i drove around for 1,000 miles revving no higher than 4,000 RPM's with the BOV OFF. This kept the engine from boosting but still allowed me to have everything hooked up. I also kept in the stock injectors during this time as well.
- At 1,000 miles into the break-in change the oil.
- throw in your larger injectors & get your ---- tuned
- go beat the ---- out of it.
It takes an *** load of patience and self-control. I would just drive around at night time in cruise control when there were no cars on the road and put about 60 or 70 miles on it a night. It is well worth the wait especially with all the money you just spent with the re-build.
good luck.
07-11-2005, 10:57 AM
#10
!! UNCONFIRMED EMAIL !!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,790
Re: Breaking in the engine
your all morons just drive the ------- thing like you would a brand new car from the dealer, just putt around town hit the freeway,take it easy, dont sit there like the worlds biggest idiot and rev your car up and down and tinker with this and that. just TAKE IT EASY FOR A FEW HUNDRED MILES
