HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum - brake tech *DIY Honda brake pad change*

Some of you know, im not much into the straight line driving anymore. Its more about handling/braking to me. stoping and turning on a dime is just as fun as going fast. This is my write up on a solid braking system and how my car is built for braking. It was a solid set-up, S/S lines, slotted rotors, cusco master cyl brace, but it had shitty pads. That made it all worthless. So I decided to change them today in preperation of a gymkhana (Japaneese auto-x) event on Monday. I hope I help someone with this.

First, lets talk about some performance upgrades for braking:
I decided to go with WedSport "CC" brakes This is a far above average pad just under a circuit/full out race pad. There is no need for that on a street car as a circuit/track pad has a temp rating that just isnt practical for street use. There are a ton of brake pads on the market, all claiming to be the best. I would run a carbotech pad, hawk "blue", wedsport "CC", project mu gymkhana pad, or axxis. If you have nice wheels, you will appreciate good pads as they greatly reduce brake dust ;)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/1383e2c3.jpg

I also run ATP Stainless Steel brake lines and APEXi slotted rotors. The stainless lines allow for a much better pedal feel and direct flow of fluid. OEM brake lines are hard ruber and expand in braking. s/s lines do not do that. Slotted rotors allow for better brake cooling. A little tech i've read is that "drilled" rotors are worthless for any type of hard braking/auto-x use unless they are forged like that. I stay away from drilled rotors. I have also read that brembo "blanks" are a very nice OEM upgrade.
My S/S lines:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/8eb0a143.jpg

My Cusco master cyl brace was probably by far the best upgrade I did brake wise. It doesnt allow any movement with the master cyl thus allowing 100% force to the brakes. They have them in the states, so its not a RHD only thing. Heres a picture of the brace.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/95798436.jpg

Brake Fluid.
Brake fluid also plays a huge role in your brakes as well as your clutch. Under very hard braking, your fluid can and will boil, causing your brakes to become non-existant. Ive also had my slave cyl get hot from my DP on my old boosted civic, so this would have fixed that problem if I would have not been a lazy ass and done it but I didnt. High temp brake fluids can be found in performance shops and you can also run a DOT3 from a motorcycle shop.

OK, so onto changing brake pads:

Changing your brake pads is uber simple and requires about 30min of your time. If you can change your own oil, you can change your brakes.

Tools required:
if your a clean freak, some brake cleaner is also needed. (not pictured :1) Also not pictured, jack, jack stands or a lug wrench to remove your wheels.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/e0f36e63.jpg

Next thing, remove these bolts:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/1cb5802d.jpg

Your brake caliper will then pull out. Set it on top of your disc or zip tie it so it hangs without putting stress on the line:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/a4f7d13f.jpg

Next thing, pull your old pads out and grab one of the old ones and use it to press in your piston in the caliper using the C clamp slowly:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/bf213924.jpg

Here are my old pads next to my new ones. Notice the new ones dont have the metal peice. Thats alright. the metal peice is for the idiots who dont check their pads and it tells them that they need to change them.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/3c9d455a.jpg

The next thing to do is slide your new pads into place, and put it back together in reverse order. One thing to remeber, the caliper wont be tight in place. This is because the piston is not secured against the pad. Get it tight, but dont snap the bolt:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/246a5312.jpg

Then, do the other side in the exact same manner.

Next thing to do is check your master cyl. Since you pushed the piston of the caliper back in, fluid might have come out of the resivor. Just check it, and maybe add some more. Ensure that you add the same type of fluid thats already in the master cyl. Also, make sure that if any seaped otu that you clean it up. Brake fluid will eat the hell out of some paint.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...r/7ee23cbb.jpg

After that, pump your brakes. You need to do this! the pedal will fall to the floor, if it does, dont worry just keep pumping.

Thats my brake write up. Some things I didnt discuss is having your rotors turned or bleeding your brakes. This is usally a good idea when changing pads so you have fresh surfaces for brake contact and you have no air in your lines. I just turned my rotors a few weeks ago and also I put in high temp fluid.

my car is sexy:
Attachment 32280