bearings
01-29-2006, 07:43 PM
#1
1.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 256
bearings
What do you guys do for bearings? I'm building a y8 with tt rods and don't know what bearings to use. I can get the color codes for the mains. But, since I'm changing rods it won't work for rod bearings. Should I just use plastigauge?
01-29-2006, 07:46 PM
#2
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 688
Re: bearings
https://www.autohausaz.com I found this link somewhere here on hmt, I ordered some acl's they showed up stat and at a hell of a price. And most def use plasticgauge
01-30-2006, 01:45 AM
#5
3.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re: bearings
there is a cod on the housing of the block and that should give you an idea on what size. i know you match that up with the numbers on the rods ( OEM) so if you still have the stock rods go by that. should work OK. Use palstigauge if you wanna be HT about it. HMT= no plasti gauge.
Last 2 motors i built i didnt use them but then again i used standard size Clevite77 bearings.
Good luck
Last 2 motors i built i didnt use them but then again i used standard size Clevite77 bearings.
Good luck
01-30-2006, 09:11 PM
#7
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 892
Re: bearings
Originally Posted by MADMAX
Most rod company's will tell you what size bearing the rod journal is sized for. Like most of the Eagle rods are sized for a number 3 honda bearing.
01-31-2006, 12:04 AM
#9
0.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 0
Re: bearings
It takes a number and a letter to determine a bearing size. For rods the rod end bore size is the number. The rod journal size on the crank is a letter (or bars) on the crank. You take the letter and number and cross reference them in the honda table which will tell you what color bearing to get.
You should still plastiguage the bearings just in case the rod journal on the crank has excessive wear. If it doesn't meet spec then you would select the next smaller size bearings and repeat with the plastiguage.
In the case of rods and you had a 3 size on the rods and a B on the crank then you would have a 3B which is a green size bearing. If it didn't meet spec then you would select a 3C size bearing (brown color) which is a thicker bearing. Then plastiguageto see if it meets spec. If it doesn't then repeat with getting the next size thicker bearing.
You should still plastiguage the bearings just in case the rod journal on the crank has excessive wear. If it doesn't meet spec then you would select the next smaller size bearings and repeat with the plastiguage.
In the case of rods and you had a 3 size on the rods and a B on the crank then you would have a 3B which is a green size bearing. If it didn't meet spec then you would select a 3C size bearing (brown color) which is a thicker bearing. Then plastiguageto see if it meets spec. If it doesn't then repeat with getting the next size thicker bearing.
01-31-2006, 01:15 AM
#10
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re: bearings
I've always ordered .25 (10 over) bearings for the mains and the rods and sent everything to the machine shop and told them I wanted .015 on everything. They torque the rod caps on with the bearings in, take a measurement and then measure the diameter of the crank throw. Then they subtract. They do this on all the crank throws and then send the crank to the crankshaft shop and have them grind down each throw to give .015 all the way accross.
The other way is if you know all the stock bearings are good, than you take them out and clean them, and put em back in. But since you're changing rods I wouldn't do that.
The other way is if you know all the stock bearings are good, than you take them out and clean them, and put em back in. But since you're changing rods I wouldn't do that.
