bearing kit
#1
bearing kit
on HT they sell a ACL bearing kit w/ platigage. does that mean that kit comes with different sizes. do i have to disassemble my block b4 i order?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=803390
says d16 all?
this is for 89si with a balanced & polished crank. crank came out of a block that cracked so im not sure if they did any machiining on it.stock pistons and rods.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=803390
says d16 all?
this is for 89si with a balanced & polished crank. crank came out of a block that cracked so im not sure if they did any machiining on it.stock pistons and rods.
#2
Re:bearing kit
It's hard to say what the hell they're selling. You either go with the factory color codes (from the crank and block) which you can't because your crank came from a different motor. You can just wing it and measure every single one and swap them around as neccessary until every spot has the correct clearance, or you can buy .25 over bearings all the way around, torque them into place (without the crank) measure the diameter between the bearings, and have a crankshaft shop cut the crank down to whatever clearance you want.
I recently had to decide about my bearings, and I was told the last way is the "correct" way when building a bottom end.
Ask the guy what he recommends though.
And I know alot of people recommend plasti-gauge, but I was also informed that if you CAN check the clearances with other instruments it may be more accurate.
I recently had to decide about my bearings, and I was told the last way is the "correct" way when building a bottom end.
Ask the guy what he recommends though.
And I know alot of people recommend plasti-gauge, but I was also informed that if you CAN check the clearances with other instruments it may be more accurate.
#4
Re:bearing kit
Originally Posted by Ravage70
---- it just put them in and pray just like im doing
oh ya i got the kit excluding the plastiguage for 100 bucks shipped ebay
oh ya i got the kit excluding the plastiguage for 100 bucks shipped ebay
date=1081662419]
or you can buy .25 over bearings all the way around, torque them into place (without the crank) measure the diameter between the bearings, and have a crankshaft shop cut the crank down to whatever clearance you want.
I recently had to decide about my bearings, and I was told the last way is the "correct" way when building a bottom end.
this wont weaken the crank? :P
#5
Re:bearing kit
I guess the "technical" answer would be yes, but when's the last time you heard of anyone breaking a crank? They aren't taking gobs of metal off, just a little. What is more important to you? Worrying about being the first guy to break a crank, or your bearings being too loose/tight?
This was just a "make a decision" post. You'll never break a crank....never.
Pretty much your only options are to wing it and measure and swap every single one, or get the crank re-done. The color codes are worthless to you at this point.
This was just a "make a decision" post. You'll never break a crank....never.
Pretty much your only options are to wing it and measure and swap every single one, or get the crank re-done. The color codes are worthless to you at this point.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re:bearing kit
stealth i still dissagree with that method of deciding what bearings to buy. by testing it with bearings that are way oversized, the crank is not sitting in there perfectly in the middle so your measurements are going to be off, making it all pointless. i still say to get the crank cut to a certain size, then get matching bearings
#8
Re:bearing kit
The bearings aren't "way oversized". They are 10 over. And you don't put the crank into the new bearings and measure. You put the bearings into the rod caps and the main caps and torque everything down (with no crank in either) Then you take a measurement. Say you have (for example) exactly a 2 inch space.
Now, your trying to get say exactly 1/8 of an inch bearing clearance. You tell the crank guy to cut the crank to 1 7/8. Now when you put the crank in and torque everything down, you have the exact 1/8 bearing clearance your looking for. All of these numbers are made up just to simplify the explanation. This is a better way to go especially when using a crank that didn't originally come in the same motor as you wish to use it in. (like 89y7turbo's case)
Ok, so if you do the color code method and end up checking everything with plastigauge, what numbers are you looking for? Theres a factory spec that varies on what would be correct. They give you a range to try to stay within, but when your building a block for turbo duty, wouldn't you rather know EXACTLY what all bearing clearances are? You won't just know what the bearing clearances are, you'll have picked what you want it to be.
Now, your trying to get say exactly 1/8 of an inch bearing clearance. You tell the crank guy to cut the crank to 1 7/8. Now when you put the crank in and torque everything down, you have the exact 1/8 bearing clearance your looking for. All of these numbers are made up just to simplify the explanation. This is a better way to go especially when using a crank that didn't originally come in the same motor as you wish to use it in. (like 89y7turbo's case)
Ok, so if you do the color code method and end up checking everything with plastigauge, what numbers are you looking for? Theres a factory spec that varies on what would be correct. They give you a range to try to stay within, but when your building a block for turbo duty, wouldn't you rather know EXACTLY what all bearing clearances are? You won't just know what the bearing clearances are, you'll have picked what you want it to be.
#10
Re:bearing kit
so the crank thats already balanced is useless then? cuz if they grind on it wont it change #s in stuff?
i guess i might as well use the crank in the block ?
also if i use the color codes from the stock rods and stock crank on aftermarket rods will that be correct?
does micro polishing the crank change the clearance?
i know, alot of questions but im trying to decide if i should attempt this myself.
i guess i might as well use the crank in the block ?
also if i use the color codes from the stock rods and stock crank on aftermarket rods will that be correct?
does micro polishing the crank change the clearance?
i know, alot of questions but im trying to decide if i should attempt this myself.