B20 vtec
 

im putting together a B20 vtec i wanna know what all i am going to need for the swap like a parts list of some kind, and to get it to be reliable.

and what do i do about the PCV Valve?

Re: B20 vtec
 

Bottom end-wise will probably be just like beefing up a b18, more than likely would replace the rod bolts and such, and see about bumping the pressure up in the oil pump. As far as conversion-wise goes, I'd probably get one of the Golden Eagle kits that supplies everything in it, especially dealing with the larger bore size. As far as a pcv setup, I doubt you'll have to worry about that once you swap a vtec head on...the pcv setup comes off the intake manifold. Otherwise if it's a straight up b20 you'd need to swap on a b18a1/b1 intake manifold. Another warning too...b20 sleeves are thin, so big boost is out of the question without a sleeving job.
A torque monster no doubt, but without proper research and knowledge your project can turn into a nightmare very quickly imo.

Re: B20 vtec
 

alot of reading but also alot of help... http://board.hondacrx.co.uk/phpBB2/v...ic.php?t=43258

Re: B20 vtec
 

make it reliable???? just buy a different motor.... like SLO said.... ur gonna have 2000+ into sleeves/pistons/rods/bolts.... etc... just buy a B16. it has a perfect R/S ratio. so you can rev the piss outta it

Re: B20 vtec
 

ok, well if i build the bottom end like do pistons, rods will it be safe to run like 5-8 psi with a s300 and tune ???

Re: B20 vtec
 

It's probably possible, but like I said earlier...thin sleeves. They don't seem to like boost much at all. Read Joseph Davis's post that's sticky'd at the top of the hybrid/tech section here on honda sleeve info...it explains what's going on with b20 sleeves. Not to mention that you'll have to find someone who makes pistons for a b20, seeing that they're an 84mm instead of 81mm. IMO it'll probably be cheaper and easier to put together a b18 bottom end and just run an ls/vtec. Here's a few specs on block heights, stroke, and bore size for you...
B16a=81mm bore 77.4mm stroke 203.25 mm deck height
b20b=84mm bore 89mm stroke 211.84 deck height
b18b=81mm bore 89mm stroke 211.84 deck height
b18c(GSR)=81mm bore 87.20 stroke 212.39 deck height
Pretty much is just a bored out b18 block that's good for all-motor, not much else.

Re: B20 vtec
 

I thought I once read here that the R/S ratio is worse than LS/Vtec setups as well. I might be wrong though. ???

Re: B20 vtec
 

Nope...exact same stroke as an LS. That's why n/a guys love the b20's...same shitty r/s ratio as b18a1/b1's (for lots of low end grunt) with the additional displacement. In the n/a world, there is no replacement for displacement.

Re: B20 vtec
 

i heard that the b20 sleeves can handle small amount of boost but they say tune it and it will be fine, and this is coming form people that have B20 vtecs running 8-10 psi on stock sleeves and its been working fine for over a year or more but i fugure if i run low amounts of boost like 5-7 psi and do one bad as# tune it will be fine, but ill run N/A for a little while to see how i like it if not ill turbo it.

Re: B20 vtec
 

1.52:1? That would be LS bottom end, and, yes, you can rev the piss out of them.

Re: B20 vtec
 

Lol he's referring to the inherent 1.75:1 legend. Still want to see how my ls bottom is going to hold out...just have to save for some machine work. Almost dropped a nut when they handed me the quote. :P

Re: B20 vtec
 

I had no idea Eagles, Wisecos, and ACLs were horrendously expensive to install. ???

Seriously, a lot of people give you a list of stupid parts "you have to buy" but all you really need to do is replace stock rods, make sure you have good oil pressure and you aren't exceeding valvetrain capabilities, and hold the gas pedal to the floor.

:P

Re: B20 vtec
 

im only going to be reving to 8000 or 8500, just because its suppost to be a safe rpm range for stock B20 Vtecs, but ill have a built bottom end so i shouldnt have any worries. 8500 rpms and 5 psi should be good enough for me :y

Re: B20 vtec
 

Tsk Tsk JD...I do all my own assembly work. This one's just supposed to be a budget build (if you want to call it that in n/a form ::) ) that I'm using stock pr4 rods with the arp bolts and a quick shotpeening. Actually, the shotpeening was the cheapest price they told me...$20. It's the balancing, micropolishing, straightening the crank, line bores, hot tanking, rod bolts being put on and line bored, pressing the pistons off the old rods and onto the pr4's that's adding up. They told me almost $750 for what I just listed...and they're not even boring the block out. Dude's are on crack :P

Re: B20 vtec
 

What's wrong with the engine that it needs all that work? I think they are trying to sell you a bunch of ---- you don't need, and/or that they aren't going to do.

Re: B20 vtec
 

Some of the work is more or less for my peace of mind. The ARP bolts is a must, and therefore I need to have the big end of the rod resized regardless. Crank micro-polishing I wanted done to help decrease on friction and decrease chances of catching a bearing and spinning one. Hot tank should be pretty well obvious...can't build a dirt block and expect great things from it ;) And then there's the pistons...using pr3 slugs, but they need to be pressed off and back on to the pr4's. The shotpeening once again was for my peace of mind. Balancing the rotating assembly was something I could probably do without, as I've decided due to current budget limitations that 8500 rpm will be more than sufficient. More than likely I'd bend or stretch a stock rod at any higher of an rpm regardless of how well balanced it was. That work was a big chunk of change...around the tune of $375 for the full deal. After looking at the block again I gave it a quick hone to break the glaze, and I probably should just over-bore seeing that there is a groove at the top of the sleeve on all 4 cylinders from where the rings stopped at the peak of the rod's upward motion.

Re: B20 vtec
 

Skip the shot peen, Honduh rods are factory forgings; they are strong from internal grain flow, where cast carries a lot of it's strength in it's skin and those are the rods that gain noticeable strength from shot peening.

I'd worry about bores shortly after I worried about rod big ends, since they need sized for the new fasteners.

Re: B20 vtec
 

Yeah, rod ends are a definate. The thing that really got on my nerves was the guy said there was a 50/50 chance he'd break the pr3's while pressing them off and on again. I used to have a mini press setup for my d-series pistons, just warmed the little end up a bit and they slid out like butter...never broke one. ^-^ We'll see how the finacial situation goes before I dump a buttload of cash on this worthless build :P