B20 Question
 

Hey so I'm looking at some engines because I want a new project for next summer.

I've been looking into a b20b block. Everything looks nice, but is sleeving really necessary? It seems like everyone recommends getting a b18 instead, but the extra displacement seems nice.

Re: B20 Question
 

Read the blurb about Honda sleeve construction stickied in this forum?

Re: B20 Question
 

Do b20 sleeves take a dump under boost or high compression yup


wonder why b20b's are so cheap now there is our answer

Re: B20 Question
 

How deep are you pockets? Use any engine you want....as long as you have a backup...or backup money! ;D

Re: B20 Question
 

The reason he's asking is because we can get a good deal for buying two B20's. (both of us buy one) It would comeout to about $600 a piece. His main concern was cost. A B18B is $900 plus about $2-300 for shipping. So he was saying why go thru the trouble and not just get a B18b.

My point is if I get the B20 for the good price and have it sleeved. I'm going to come out just a little higher than the stock B18b, but will have sleeves that were rated for 600hp and the extra displacement.

Re: B20 Question
 

LS shorty needs .25 over 100 dollars. 750 pistons and rods. Turn up boost and flay nig nogs alive.

Re: B20 Question
 

I'm guessing you're saying to overbore the ls .25, wouldn't that just turn it into a b20?

Re: B20 Question
 

I had no idea you were this much of a n00b. Where do I begin? :(

Re: B20 Question
 

Yeah sorry I didn't understand the jumble of words and numbers.

Re: B20 Question
 

b20=84mm bore

ls =81 bore

same crank

Re: B20 Question
 

Yeah I know, I looked it up and the only difference between all the other b-series and the b20 (other than stroke) was that the b20 has 84mm bore and every other engine has 81mm....and I'm guessing "ls shorty needs .25 over 100 dollars" is translated to ls block needs a .25 overbore for 100 dollars? I wasn't seeing the point in boring the ls (if that's what he's suggesting) because then we'd be basically back to a b20...

Re: B20 Question
 

Okay, I'm home at a keyboard instead of trying to punch this into a phone, so I'm going to give it a shot.

chris means to/should say:

Read the stickied thread about Honduh sleeves at the top of this forum, seriously. People will tell you that B20B/Z sleeves are thinner than LS, which is not true, not that either are very thick. The amount of metal poured around the liner is thinner if anything. With how Honduh sleeves are ribbed it is not uncommon to find thin spots of 0.060" (!!!)

When I said .25 over above I meant .25mm... that's ---- all of an increase of displacement. For the most part I (and other Americans) use primarily SAE measurements, but since Honduh (and other imports) have pistons oversized in 1/4 mm increments I ASSumed you would understand what I meant.

Unless you want over 450 with reliability, I'd just grab an LS block with okay stock bores and a good crank for $100 or less, and stuff $300 Eagles and 81.25mm or 81.50mm forged pistons picked up from a HT distressed riceboy discount sale. After that, you can make a lot of power off stock blocks (Jeff Evans multiple 600 whp 81.50mm overbore master, perfect example) but it requires an owner who understands the vehicle as much as the tuner understands tuning to make that sort of combo reliable. With how manufacturing tolerances are, there is a slight chance that some blocks have core shift in the sleeves and won't be reliable at any boost level after overhone... but that likelyhood is *much* less than the 2-5% return rate on sleeved blocks due to fucked mains or sleeves sinking.

You're a good guy, and not an ignorant shill who runs his mouth. I didn't mean to throw it in your face that you didn't have a good grasp (yet) of building engines and what to expect from a machinist/machineshop, but I'm that serious; you need to read up a bit before you do or buy anything.

Re: B20 Question
 

Yeah it's cool :P I just didn't know what was going on lol. I've honestly never even read into b-series too much since I started with a d-series around two years ago...which was probably about when I changed oil for the first time, no ----. First "project" i ever did other than maintenance was a head gasket, and the turbo setup will be my second "project."

And thanks for the info, I'll definately read over that thread again because it seems like I missed a bit and it's been a couple months since I read it. My roommate (doug684) and I were just curious because it seems like getting two b20b blocks for $1300 shipped, then getting them sleeved, would come out as a pretty good value when comparing to buying an ls swap...for a little more cash you have a much stronger block with more displacement.

But yeah will definately read more because I have a lot to learn.

Ok...well I just read over it again... Basically says that Honda's cast iron liner in the sleeves has splines to reduce the gap between it and the aluminum and have a better seal. I'm guessing that because of this design it makes sleeving a pain in the ass??

I understand what you're saying about the ls block ... does seem a lot cheaper and easier...

Re: B20 Question
 

If you are sleeving blocks, it doesn't matter which you get (except B16 with the short deck height you lpose displacement on stroke) as they can all be bored out to whatever. 84mm is the largest I'd go, and that leaves you room to overbore a little if things get scratched up. Once it hits 85mm, I'd sell to a NA guy because you start losing surface area for headgasket to find purchase against.

Re: B20 Question
 

If you need ls swaps pm me. I have 2 parts cars coming to my shop in a week

Re: B20 Question
 

84mm b16a is my dream build hopefully in a couple years when i stop spending every penny I earn at sears and harbor freight.


If you all you want is a 300 whp car the ls is your choice and follow what jd says


The b20 blocks at one time were so valueable 1000+ or a longblock


on the westcoast prices are in the 450+ range now for good reason