Ok guys' I've never messed with a B series just only done D and H. I've got a friend that has invited/needs my services. This is the set up. B18B block with a GSR head that the VTEC wires are not ran but had an adapter plate to cover the solenoid, and now he just recieved back from the machine shop a LS rod/Type R piston combo. We are installing this stuff this weekend if I can get some help from you guys. He pulled the head and unbolted the piston rods and pulled the whole rod/piston assembly, so what I need is the torque ratings for the (1) Rod bolts (2) main bolts with ARP main studs (3) Head bolts are going to reused. The sleeves are cherry, mic ed them all around up and down the sleeve of the piston travel And they hold true. All new gaskets for the head, oil pan, valvecover and a new water pump along with a new Trust timing belt are being installed. So guys hook a cracker up. This is my cherry being popped on the B's

 

Also any cheat pointers for reusing the stock main and rod bearing would help. All been labeled as top and bottom for each cylinder. Do I just scotch brite them or get new O.E. or get the ACL's. Kinda doing the SAVE SOME CASH DEAL. All Bearings dont have a scuff but he did have the schampher beveled more and the id opened .002 bigger. What ever that means, All I know is to help with oiling but the measurement is greek to my metric ***

 

So at 430am Indy time I've had 7 viewers but no answers, is this combo trickey or are people bitching out. I googled and cant find the ratings

 

Basicly it's a high compression ls/vtec. First thing your buddy should do is replace the LS stock rod bolts with ARP rod bolts (run about $40 and well worth it) and then have the big end of the rod machined (line honed) to make sure they are in spec again (rod bolts are press on types...they tend to shift the rod end a little when they're pressed off and on). Make sure also that you guys hone the sleeves at least to break the glaze (that nice polished mirror finish) and to allow a new set of rings seat themselves properly. Also make sure your friend has either (A) his head machined properly for an ls/vtec swap (dowel pin holes enlarged slightly and oil return plugged) or (B) an ls/vtec swap kit. Make sure you also have the oil line to run from the block to the head as well, and use an LS (b18a1) headgasket. I would reccomend spraying some copper spray on it as well to try and keep the oil leaks between the block and the head to a minimum...ls/vtec's are notorious for them when not done properly. And while you're at it, might wanna pick up an aftermarket cam plug...one with the o-ring seals on it. Will save the headache's of cleaning the block every day because of oil dripping from the plug.
As for the bottom end, get some plastigauge and check the bearing clearances just to make sure they're ok. You can download the acura resource manual stickied at the top of this section and it has the specs you need. The chamfer you speak of is pretty much just opening up the oil passage ways in the crank a little more and smoothing them out so you have better oil flow. Whatever you do don't scuff the bearings or surfaces if you plan on reusing them...when you assemble them make sure you use PLENTY of assembly lube as well. Oh, and as for the ARP main bolts, you've got one of two choices...you can either stretch the bolts properly and set them at factory honda/acura specs, or stretch them and set them at ARP's specs. If you set them at ARP's specs then you are going to need to have the main's align honed, as they will distort the shape of the main's. Which also means you'd have to get new main bearings unless they spec out ok.
Make sure you also use gsr timing belt, gsr water pump, and gsr head bolts as well. Would also be a good idea to get a b-series vtec oil pump, or a b-series oil pump from 94+ and shim it a hair to increase the oil pressure.
If you have any more questions, let me know...I'll hook you up with everything you need to know.

 

Thanks alot, well I found out that he isnt using the ARP's . I have him convinced for the ARP rod bolts, and everything else will be O.E parts and torque ratings, as far as the Vtec enable part, he's holding off to enable it, I'm not fully accepting this half *** stuff he wants to do but cash flow is an issue since he's been off work for surgery on his ankle. WE WILL SEE

 

Lol, how is he holding off on using vtec? He has to plug the oil return passage regardless whether he wants to use vtec or not...the LS block doesn't have the passageway cast in, and it'll leak oil all over the back of the motor. Keep us updated though, and good luck!

 

The block has been plugged, and he is half assing everything, I went to go to his house to drop the slugs in and the #3 piston was fucked and the cylinder too. I told him what I'd do, then he said that takes money. He said to go ahead and assemble the block, start it, let it run for a long time, change oil, drive 50miles, change oil again and he is going to let it set and put a for sale tag on it. ITS wrong but at least he can get his money worth out of it. It's a drag strip rebuild but with out the measuring, the rod bearings were so fucked they were pitted and you can see a gold color under the scars. Oh well for a good experience of a semi build B.

 

I don't see that motor lasting 50 miles in that shape.