what should be done to make the walls stronger? is the b20 worth it, it sounds like its not a safe build, and with weak walls from the start, not to relieable. at least to me. maybe iam wrong.

 

for N/A im sure the b20 will hold just fine. But if you want to strengthen it you have to get it sleeved.

I read in Honda Tuning Magazine. Some guy said he compared b20b cams to LS (didnt say b18a or b18b?) and said the LS cams were +7hp every time. It was in a Riced out green 94 civic coupe.

 

i heard you can't put a non Vtec B20 in a civic/teg cause of hood clearance (intake mani?) is that true? also, could you swap an LS head/mani/cams/etc directly onto it? or would it not work?

 

exterior dimensions of the b20b/z are the same as the b18 motors. the extra .2L is from bore.

 

the intake mani on the B20 B/Z looks like it goes upward far more then the LS does. Am I just seeing things?

 

Yeah some chump has an EF with an stock N/A B20 and it huals ***, so they do fit. If I had the dough I'd do it. Hell I'd like a b18, vtec or not. For what I would consider as a fairly reiable daily driver, can't go wrong, you'll definitely get a nice kick out of it and you won't be stressin it too much. But if you plan on turboing a b20, I'd say get a back up car.

-Murdoc

 

the b20b is the 97-98 crv motor that had that huge a$$ intake manifold (i call it the giraffe). 99-2001 CRV had the b20z, which has a shorter, more space efficient intake mani. i would say that the b20b motor would require a different intake mani (skunk2, LS or something) to fit where the b20z mani might just fit.

 

what are the stock specs on a b20 anyway?

 

what do you mean by specs?
a b20b has 127hp and 140tq at some ungodly low RPM, the b20z is a little higher on both sides.

 

any validity to this quote?
set with gears on ebay for 25$