IowaTCoupe

Ok, so i swapped a B18a1 into my 95 coupe.

Going from OBD-1 to OBD-0

I had the Wiring harness from both the B18a1, and the D16z6... I found it easier to wire up my civic harness than the B18 conversion... But i have a couple questions.... There are three extra plugs from my D16 harness left over, and a couple plugs on the B18 i'm confused about

What do these plugs FROM THE D16 CIVIC harness plug into?
One plug has a yellow one red wire, this is the Purge Control Solenoid. Where do i plug it into the B18? Does the B18 even have one??

the other has one green and one black wire. According to the honda manual, this is the "Coolant Temp SW" what ever that is.

And the last sensor i need to know about is the Elect Air Ctrl Valve (EACV) Solenoid. Where does this go on the D16? Does the B18 have this?? The wire colors are Blue w/ Yellow stripe, and a Yellow with Black stripe.

If i can figure out where these plugged into on the D16, i can figure out where they go on the B.
Here are two pictures:





Here is the second problem:
On the back of the B18 block, there is the oil pressure sensor, and the green plug, and another two prong sensor type thing.... what plug (color wires) go into that green plug? I forget.
This info would help ALOT.






And Lastly... On the B18: On the back of the block, are two nipples, I assume these are for coolant flow for the mechanical speed sensor? Do i need to block these off if i'm using my electrical sensor from the D16?



(i also assume that the plug next to the two nipples is for the speed control? Am i wrong?)

IowaTCoupe

Nobody knowsssss

Scott-EP

the purge solinoide is mounted on the firewall in obd0 cars so you will need to find a place to mount yours and plug it in. it doesnt need to do anything, just be plugged in.

the plug with the green and black wire is for a coolant sensor that wont be on the b18. its only on obd1 cars

the 2 nipples on the speed sensor are for power steering fluid for speed sensitive power steering

the pic with the red arrows is a knock sensor, if you are using the civic ecu to run the engine then you dont need it. the plug next to the 2 nipples is the Idle Air Control Vlave. you need to run coolant to those lines, but dont worry about the 3rd one in that same pic. its not neccesary.

IowaTCoupe

That helps alot~

Now what about the sensor on the rear of the block w/ the two electric prongs coming out of it??

next to the oil filter location, and next to the oil pressure sensor?

Scott-EP

its a knock sensor. it depends on what ecu your are using if you need it or not

IowaTCoupe

I'm using my chipped P28. Tuning w/ Crome.


Anyone have a good basemap? I'm talking with stock ignition maps and stock fuel maps, i'll add boost tools and rev tools and injector / map sensor alterations w/ my CromePro.

Scott-EP

its easy to make a stock map

whiterice

You need the hoses to replace 1, 2, and 6 (the one on the bottom, hard to see the number)

Slo_crx1

No, it's not a knock sensor. His block is a b18a1...KS's are only found in DOHC vtec's. The 2 prong I'm pretty sure is the radiator fan temp switch. The green plug one I never really found out what it was, it sits in an oil return passage, so it might be some sort of oil temp sensor that won't get hooked up with your z6 harness. I'm using a modified 89 dx->93 z6 harness currently on my b16, and used on my old b18a1 as well with no problems. When in doubt, check the service manual stickies posted at the top of this section...they have layouts of all the sensors and the colors of the wires...just cross reference from there.

Tom-Guy

It doesn't need to be plugged in.


All Honduhs have a coolant temperature switch. All water-cooled engine do, as a matter of fact.

You obviously aren't running the OBD1 thermostat housing, which is where that 2p plug goes. You need to extend it to the big two-prong switch on the back of the block which you have the dual red arrows pointed to.



Well, if you block off the FIT-V it isn't required, if you don't block off the FIT-V and leave that coolant line disconnected don't come whining about 1-3K rpm idle surges; we don't want to hear it. BTW, some (non-Honduh) OEM and a LOT of aftermarket TBs are bad about sticking if the TB isn't brought up to operating temperature.


It's an oil pressure switch that hijacks ELD input to the ECU, showing max draw. It's only found on B18A1, and should be ignored.