RotaryGeek

Ok so last night my friend painted his 78 cb750 in my garage. We used the automotive paint from from advanced auto. Now i know this is where 90% of the problem is, but this was all in the name of doing it on the cheap. the paint says it doesn't need to be reduced, but can be if i want to. So after some test shots, it came out really spotted like. So we reduced the paint and upped the paint flow some. Oh yeah, my compressor is set at 35 psi, the paint can says between 30 and 40 psi. The actual paint came out ok for his first paint job. But the clear coat came out shitty as hell. Its not very shiny and looks pretty much like single stage paint. Is it going to hurt to throw a couple more coats of clear coat on after i have let the paintjob sit over night? (we finished around 10 this morning) Also, we reduced the clear coat the same amount as the paint, about 65/35. If i put on some more coats of clear without reducing it, will it make it any better? When i painted my bike, i used ppg paint and dupont clear coat, and we reduced it exactly like the can says to, so i didn't have any problems. If it helps any, we sprayed 3 coats of color, 10 minutes between each one, and about and hour after paint was shot, we sprayed the clear on 3 coats thick with 10 minutes between each coat.

skittersk8er

yea im a tard read that a lil to fast.lol. clear is really picky though also regardless. ---- buff that ----. wet sand it with 1000 grit then buff it. should be shiny as hell then.

Jorsher

I'm never painted anything except ---- with rattle-cans.

But, I don't see how extra coats of clear coat would cause any problems.

RotaryGeek

im thinking about wet sanding the body with 2000 grit and spraying more clear on it. im worried about the tack time between when i painted it (almost 12 hours ago) and when i get to painting it again (probably another 10 hours). i dont want it to look like ----. cant do any buffing yet becuase the paint still isnt totally dry. its too easy to burn through right now. i was always told by my paint and body teacher that you shouldnt buff for a week just to make sure. i do have rubbing compound and buffing and some good carnuba wax to use later, but thats just like polishing a turd.

dispocrx

ok...i do this for a living mang...listen....DONT wetsand it with 1000 and try to buff it out...you will kill yourself...If you want, get some 1500 to start and move onto 2000 and try buffing out a spot and see what it does...we buff cars the morning after they are painted and sometimes the same day...so dont worry about that, if you want it to be nice and slick then DO wetsand it with 1000, then re-clear it, keep your clear wet and follow the directions on the can...
Post some Pics of the car and post the labels on your can and i can give you better suggestions...
OH and turn your air pressure down a little bit try 25-30psi and move a little bit slower...

MAJORAHOLE

+1

most people wet sand and buff next day.
i waited a week on my grandpa's model A i painted.
it sucked ***** to do.

ososlohatch

lol ---- ya . the problem def sounds like your a sal when it comes to wet sanding .. just use lots of hot water and 1500 .. work on smal areas at a time ( not huge strokes) once it looks like a chalk board when its dry then you are ready for 2000 or buff with some 3m compound you'll have her looking like a ferrari in no time

fork

Well you should have set the air pressure to what your gun needs not what the paint can said. and if there is enough clear on there you should be abke to wet sand and buff it to a decent gloss.

ososlohatch

ya pressure depends on alot of ---- .. temp/your tip/the kind of paint/ your compressor... i always just play with it a little .. i know its red neck but it works