MP5T
05-14-2009, 10:10 PM
#51
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
It was the reason I bought a Mazda in the first place...
video...
The MP5T Video
It's an old video... Like 3 years ago.. All the new ---- isn't in it..
video...
The MP5T Video
It's an old video... Like 3 years ago.. All the new ---- isn't in it..
Last edited by BRIAN MP5T; 05-14-2009 at 10:15 PM.
05-15-2009, 04:40 PM
#52
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Ok, this is the final prototype for the Ignition system. It will be used to make the final part once I get some more aluminum.
I cleaned it up a bit more than the original which hung over the belt, (Yuck)
All there is left, is everything else...
Still working on Wiring...
Bought gas so I could test out the pump and fuel pressure sending unit..
I cleaned it up a bit more than the original which hung over the belt, (Yuck)
All there is left, is everything else...
Still working on Wiring...
Bought gas so I could test out the pump and fuel pressure sending unit..
05-15-2009, 09:38 PM
#53
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Fuel Pump Primes no problem.
When the ECU is turned on, it triggers the pump to charge the rail with pressure.
This confirmed..
1. The pump works.
2. There are no leaks.
3. The Fuel Pressure Sensor Works.
4. The HALTECH is doing exactly what I expect. Perfect.
When the ECU is turned on, it triggers the pump to charge the rail with pressure.
This confirmed..
1. The pump works.
2. There are no leaks.
3. The Fuel Pressure Sensor Works.
4. The HALTECH is doing exactly what I expect. Perfect.
05-16-2009, 10:59 AM
#55
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 165
That's an awesome setup man, I've seen your cardomain page before and I am digging your setup. I got an mp5 in '07 and I've been researching forever trying to find someone else who has turbo'd one and how they set theirs up. Hopefully mine will be boosted by the end of this summer. But good job on your car, it's very well done.
05-16-2009, 05:16 PM
#56
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Thanks very much.
I have been ------- around with this car since 2003, Every Spring seems to be a Big Panic of Modifications.
Year One was the initial Build.
Year Two, Huge Suspension Modification.
Year Three, Blown Motor, Full Forged Rebuild.
Year Four... Drive shafts.
Year Five, Transmission and Quaife LSD
Year Six, This year.. What you have seen on this thread lately..
Fixing ---- that was built like ---- the year before. I literally believe that everything is built properly.. Like The Oil Return Lines, The Downpipe is finally built with totally huge radius mandrel bends. The ECU is the biggest thing to date, Just being able to properly tune the engine across the board will probably free up so much HP over the old system, (Extra Injection System)
I have been ------- around with this car since 2003, Every Spring seems to be a Big Panic of Modifications.
Year One was the initial Build.
Year Two, Huge Suspension Modification.
Year Three, Blown Motor, Full Forged Rebuild.
Year Four... Drive shafts.
Year Five, Transmission and Quaife LSD
Year Six, This year.. What you have seen on this thread lately..
Fixing ---- that was built like ---- the year before. I literally believe that everything is built properly.. Like The Oil Return Lines, The Downpipe is finally built with totally huge radius mandrel bends. The ECU is the biggest thing to date, Just being able to properly tune the engine across the board will probably free up so much HP over the old system, (Extra Injection System)
05-17-2009, 10:51 PM
#57
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Finished all the wires around the engine.
There is only one main wire (Split loam) that comes from the firewall.
All wires that go to sensors or engine components are contained within a single 2" conduit.
It splits cleanly to only two smaller parts.
1 Runs along the injectors.
2 Runs in front of the coils.
The result is an almost surgical looking engine bay. Almost everything is visible.
There is only one main wire (Split loam) that comes from the firewall.
All wires that go to sensors or engine components are contained within a single 2" conduit.
It splits cleanly to only two smaller parts.
1 Runs along the injectors.
2 Runs in front of the coils.
The result is an almost surgical looking engine bay. Almost everything is visible.
05-19-2009, 12:03 PM
#58
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Wiring for Haltech Sport 1000/2000 ECU to a Mazda Protege (America) Astina Sport 20 (Australia) with FS Engine 2.0L
Throttle Position Sensor
TPS
Haltech Orange to blue with Red Line on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech Black to Black on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech White to Green with Black Stripe on stock sensor harness wire
Remember to calibrate the sensor with the software.
Cam Position Sensor.
(HOME)
RELUCTOR.
Haltech Yellow to Green on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech Green to Grey on stock sensor harness wire
CRANK Position Sensor.
(TRIGGER)
RELUCTOR.
NOTE: There are only two wires that are used by the Haltech, The third is a Shield that goes to ground.
Haltech Yellow to Red on stock harness wire
Haltech Green to Green on stock harness wire
Here is reading on Reluctors
Distributor Pickups
RISING RATE Reluctor for Trigger with No GAIN, No Filter.
RISING RATE Reluctor for HOME with No GAIN, No Filter.
EDIT: and NOTE.
It is so cool, I had another sensor attached to the Haltech that was not attached to the car. I was able to fool it with a ferrous metal part (Ratchet Handle) to see the counter rise on the Laptop. As soon as the Haltech detects movement on the sensor it fires the fuel pump. If you only trigger it once, it fires the pump and shuts off, if you trigger it over and over, the pump stays on (Like it's supposed to, Haltech is awesome!)
Throttle Position Sensor
TPS
Haltech Orange to blue with Red Line on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech Black to Black on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech White to Green with Black Stripe on stock sensor harness wire
Remember to calibrate the sensor with the software.
Cam Position Sensor.
(HOME)
RELUCTOR.
Haltech Yellow to Green on stock sensor harness wire
Haltech Green to Grey on stock sensor harness wire
CRANK Position Sensor.
(TRIGGER)
RELUCTOR.
NOTE: There are only two wires that are used by the Haltech, The third is a Shield that goes to ground.
Haltech Yellow to Red on stock harness wire
Haltech Green to Green on stock harness wire
Here is reading on Reluctors
Distributor Pickups
RISING RATE Reluctor for Trigger with No GAIN, No Filter.
RISING RATE Reluctor for HOME with No GAIN, No Filter.
EDIT: and NOTE.
It is so cool, I had another sensor attached to the Haltech that was not attached to the car. I was able to fool it with a ferrous metal part (Ratchet Handle) to see the counter rise on the Laptop. As soon as the Haltech detects movement on the sensor it fires the fuel pump. If you only trigger it once, it fires the pump and shuts off, if you trigger it over and over, the pump stays on (Like it's supposed to, Haltech is awesome!)
05-19-2009, 01:37 PM
#60
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 152
Thanks very much. I love this car... I Love it more when it's running and based on my Update, that will not take too long..
UPDATE!! ------- SUCCESS!
I just hooked up the starter to verify that the Trigger and Home sensor work on the car.
If I had the Fuses in for the Coils and Injectors, it would have tried to start for real.
See Picture, Home Counter, Trigger Counter near Bottom Middle..
The 4 Home, means that the engine did 8 Revolutions or four full cycles.
The 255 Triggers is divided by 8 as 31 and some decimal. Which is fine because it should be around 245 - 280 (Due to when I stopped cranking the starter)
This means that the math that the ECU is doing, is exactly the math I was expecting.
The Cam gear modification work, a Reluctor sensor has a unique property, the signal becomes stronger as speed is increased. So if this low speed test has no trouble, then it will only get better when the car is actually running.
I am still waiting on a WBO2 controller to run the engine..
UPDATE!! ------- SUCCESS!
I just hooked up the starter to verify that the Trigger and Home sensor work on the car.
If I had the Fuses in for the Coils and Injectors, it would have tried to start for real.
See Picture, Home Counter, Trigger Counter near Bottom Middle..
The 4 Home, means that the engine did 8 Revolutions or four full cycles.
The 255 Triggers is divided by 8 as 31 and some decimal. Which is fine because it should be around 245 - 280 (Due to when I stopped cranking the starter)
This means that the math that the ECU is doing, is exactly the math I was expecting.
The Cam gear modification work, a Reluctor sensor has a unique property, the signal becomes stronger as speed is increased. So if this low speed test has no trouble, then it will only get better when the car is actually running.
I am still waiting on a WBO2 controller to run the engine..
