blade8r

so pissed right now. was driving down the road not speeding or wasting gas abnormally. after i had purchased some grocery for the house and my stupid car detonated or something but it sounds like a damm spun bearing. like metal spining everywhere in the oil pan.

it surprisingly still idles and and revs as such but you can hear either the main journal or the Rods spining.

anyways its my daily and i can't afford this ---- since my work decided to drop 5 dollars out of my pay every hour.

anyways i blew my d15b8/z6 head untuned p28 on a y8 intake manifold.

sorry about the rant but any socal guys have any d15/d16 spare sitting in their garage i can buy off them?

88dx

you dont hear bearings spining you hear a knock from a spun main/rod bearing failure

CIVIC.93

true story

Tom-Guy

It might be something stupid like an idler pulley, water pump, alternator. Wait until daylight and give her a look over.

If it's bottom end, the #1 best way to check in pull the VTEC solenoid and look for debris. Post pics for best advice.

blade8r

alright will do ill pull out the VTEC solenoid and see what kind of crap is inside of there before i head off to work and maybe. if it were an idle pulley it would be a godsend. i could just fixed that ---- up with discounted parts i could get from work..

at least pepboys is good for something.

anyways the water pump is an old pump. car isn't overheating belt is tight on the alternator. engine was never eating oil. pcv was new and ----.

wasn't even driving hard when you heard the engine give a random "pop" (sounded like a belt tore off.) it could of just jumped a tooth and is running too advance. and is pinging. can't tell. really. ill see what up.

i was thinking maybe it was just a from using an untuned p28. but then again 10k miles and its the first ---- that goes wrong with it. i just put a new fuel pump in the ----------er too.

blade8r

alright here is an update.

i went to my truck to get my ratchet set out so i can pulll out the damm Vtec solenoid. alas someone fucken took em... so i couldn't pull the damm thing out. i decided against driving the car to work today. i rather not be stranded just in case.

so i started the car check out the belts and what not. i have full crankcase of oil. kinda dark but still okay. but then you can hear the 1st cylinder tingling. I'm pretty sure its bearing failure. also my timing belt is loose a bit and the difference in deck/head height isn't helping the fact that the the belt is kinda rubbing against the motor mount.

no pictures today guys

but quick questions for the guru. i got a guy offering me a bare block d16y8 no head with a spun bearing. i was thinking of using my z6 head and mating it to the y8 block (when/If) i got those items. obviously I'd have to send those parts out and get it built. but anything i should know about doing that setup.

Guy-Fast

Beings from outerspace approve zc's

HiProfile

REAL bad spun bearings sound like hammer beating on wood from behind plywood. I picked up a block to put in a blown EG, ended up having THREE spun mains and 2 spun rods. Freakin nuts. I was praying it was just the head due to the Comp cam...

Honestly I woulldn't touch a y7/y8 block. I vaguely recall someone saying a Z6 pump + Z6 rear seal + Z6 pan worked on a Y8 block, but... I just stick to Z6/A6 blocks because. I've also seen Y7 cranks that weren't crossdrilled, so...

bitchM0VE

Post a vid running the engine so we can hear it. First step is to accurately diagnose the problem. Did this noise start right after starting the car? Cam could have jumped time and bent a valve. Seen that happen more than once on a d16.

blade8r

i don't have a video camera to record or send it out so you guys can see it. i'm pretty sure the block is fucked. so im not going to even bother with it. besides its more like Plywood with foil being beat on a stick. so i'm guessing it's only partial failure.

rest assured ill post pics of the block of the d15 when it gets pulled out and tore apart.

besides its an old 220k miles beat up POS d15. i mean really really beat up d15.

anyways i bought a complete d16y7 today for 125 dollars. it's suppose to have 70k miles or so. anyways i plan to mess with that.

i plan on dropping my z6 head for the vtec. also my head only has maybe 8k miles on it since its rebuild. i doubt there going to be any issue there unless i rev'd it too hard during it's life. but its never seen the light of above over 7k rpm.

what i need to know is if there is any deck height difference between a z6 head to a y7/y8 head so as i don't have to use a cam gear to adjust the timing. also i remember something about the different timing between a z6 to a y8.

also it's staying obd-1 it'll be just like the mini me except I'll be using a d16y7 block. only thing i really got to know is what timing belt to use. as it isn't a d15b8 anymore.