dragon

are you still complaining about the horsepower #'s between the h22 and h23?

accordepicenter

Having done my own experimentation, messing with the dual intake manifold (aka PRETEC, not VTEC, PRETEC) youll lose a considerable amount of down low power and your gas milage will suffer accordingly. You might gain some power in a 250-500 rpm drop in the activation of the pretec point but its better to leave it stock then to leave it open all the time. BTW youre pics dont work. The FPR mod generally makes a small difference in low-midrange power.

BoosTedZSix

its a butterfly damn it. its there for bottom and midrange power and opens up for the upper rpm range. i dont know what you mean be FPR. im assuming fuel pressuse regulator. the sx regulator is also a fuel pressure regulator. so what the ---- are u talking about man. clear this ---- up. i dont know what the ---- your talking about.

Spenser

it's in simple english man, go back to school.

JD

I'll take up for you on this one Spenser. What the hell are you guys talking about. These are all pretty good tips for cheap horsepower (although maybe just a little), but are still useful easy to understand instructions. For those who dont understand maybe we can buy Spenser a plane ticket to the US and get him to do them for you.

TekPhobia

Yea, before, you were cruising around town at 0psi, but after I/H/E, it's now 12psi! What a bunch of bullshit...typical ricer mentality. I sure hope the ECU can compensate for a small CFM gain.

-Tim

Spenser

At part throttle it will be able to run fine, since it runs in "open" loop mode, relying on information from the O2 sensor and other sensors (Air temp sensor?) to control A/F ratio. but at full throttle the engine is running of pre programmed maps(hence the name PGMFI) so injector pulse and timing is set. So since the stock maps are tuned for Airflow of the stock setup, The Ecu has no way to compensate at full throttle. But the engine is not tuned for "max power" and probly runs alittle rich from the factory, so with the more air the leaning out of the mixture mightbe benificial? I dunno.

Unhooking the fuel pressure regulator probly reduces the fuel pressure even more resulting in less fuel.

I'm pretty sure that running a bit leaner from factory will result in alittle more HP, I'm not sure, Maybe the FPR mod does the reversal and adds fuel for the mods, I'm a moron.

I know my friend at the track runs slower times when he raises his fuel pressure on his D16.

Anyway, all of those mods are retarded, and he doesn't really explain how to do them in full detail, and since it sounds like it's written by a ricer, it's probly meant for more noobs, basicly it's a bad write up.

Doofnoil

TekPhobia

Actually, at part throttle, the car is in CLOSED loop. Only until you go WOT is it open loop.

Even with these mods that supposedly allow a ton more air in, the ECU will know about it via the MAP sensor. It's not just blindly injecting fuel at WOT; it still relies on a few sensors.

And finally, if you disconnect the FPR's vac hose, you'll be running rich. Think about it. At WOT, there's little to no vacuum to pull on the diaphragm of the FPR, so you get max fuel pressure. Only because it maintains a pressure differential between the injectors and intake manifold.

So yea, if I see a Prelude with a bunch of vac hoses disconnected, I'll just point and laugh...

-Tim

accordepicenter

little stuff like this, weight reduction, and an auto-5 speed swap brought me from 17.3 to 16.2 on a very mildy modified accord