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Hey I have this header on my FB Rx-7 that collects two 1-7/8" id primarys in to a 2" id pipe that has been all cut up and bastardised. I want to cut off the 2" and collect them into .125 wall 2.25 id instead. I've got a new flange and I just need the 1/8" wall 2.25"id pipe. Anyone know where I could get about 1' of that pipe and anyone want to help me cut it up and weld it up? I know there are a few out here in WA that are quite crafty with a welder and your bad ass HMT cars. I'm in Seattle BTW. Cash in hand. Any help would be great.

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I can fix anything with some JB :y

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LOL Me too. There's more JB weld on my car then there is steel.

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run both of them all the way back right before the muffler, or just dont collect them at all. This is called a true duel setup. Its louder than a normal setup thats collected, but it frees up the most hp.

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Actually...A true dual setup is only when the primaries are not collected at all. True duals only work on stock ported engines. a stock rotary has huge amounts of over lap. A stock port has as much over lap as compairable to running 278 cams on a boinger. The bigger the ports the more potential power and the more overlap. My car has a fully built 13B with huge ports. When building a powerfull rotary you want to get the exhaust out as fast as possible. The best way to do this is with exhaust scavenging, in laymans turns a collected exhaust scavenges the exhaust pulses. You collect a rotaries exhaust depending on how big your ports are and where you want to have peak torque. Long primary exhausts as you suggested will make peak tq from 4-5K depending on port and where you collect. any where between 89 and 125 inches depenging on induction flow rates and port size. Short primary exhausts as I have usually make peak TQ from 6-10k again depenging on induction flow rates and port size and type. These short primary exhausts usually collect from 10 to 25 inches. The longer the primaries the lower Rpm the engine will make peak tq. Mine already collect at 25" and should be perfect for my port size and power goals, but it's just a shitty collector that needs to be redone. Sorry for the book but I know my rotors I've built plenty of very high HP rotaries throughout my years. I even have tought rotaries in auto engineering classes.

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yup.

i just read books and talk to jim downing. his shop is right down the street from my house.

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if you tickle my balls your car will gain 40hp

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If it wasnt a rx-7 u might be able to find someone to work on it.

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lol nice coments. This site is always good for the post -----s. Jim is a good guy, really knows his ----. I wish he'd get back into it like he was in the 80's. I'd love to see some new ---- from them.

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ok

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what the ---- does this mean? rx7 owners dont need mechanics. we work on our own cars.

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they really should have made apex seal replacements a lot easier on those cars. i have never owned one, but i know they go through them like people on this site go through oil. turbo cars always leak

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the engine takes 30 minutes to pull out, and less time to tear down, and about a couple hours to rebuild.

its.... not that hard.

plus apex seals arent made of plastic. if you treat it right it will run for a long time.

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Rataries are enherantly more reliable then piston cars. There are only 9 things to break. The only problem is that any 1 of those 9 things requires a rebuild to fix. There are plenty of 200k+ rotaries out there. My FC had 235k before it finally blew and I beat the ---- out of it. I've built turbo rotaries on cars with over 300k miles on them. It's all about tuning. With a piston engine you can survive a few detonations and tune around them. with a rotary 1 and it's blown. The thing is to have someone tune the car who knows what they are doing. The biggest problem with FD is that they are tuned to the extent from Mazda running 13:1 afr's for peak power at 8 psi. People throw and exhaust on there with no other mods and all of a sudden you're running 14.5:1 afr's at 10 psi and people wonder why their car blew up.

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idiot

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You can drive a rotary car for 200k and not have to replace 1 thing... I've done it. I've never heard of even a Honda going 200k without replacing a timing belt, head gasket, etc... Other than mods my FC never had anything replaced but brakes, oil and air filters and it lasted 235k.

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you've driven one car 200k miles yourself? you're 26, so assuming it was your first car, you'd have to drive it 20,000 miles per year on average for ten years, which is well outside what an average person drives.

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im not trying to get into the rotary/ piston debate. it will never end and im not closed minded enough to think pistons engines are the best. i am open to all engines

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i loved my rx7, no longer own it, wish i had the cash to keep it. oh well im sure i can get another one. one thing for sure is this as a known fact, the exhaust note on a rx7 will own all others cars for life!!!!! its the best sounding thing ever to my ears.

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I didn't put all 200k on it, I was the second owner. I was a manufacturers rep and drove an average of 45,000 miles a year when I had it. Yes much more than average you should've seen my gas recipts and tax exemptions. I love piston cars as well. Both engines have their benifits and both have their drawbacks. I will always have both types of cars and modify both. I'm done with the debate because it's as pointless as a n/a, turbo, super charger debate. Noone can ever win.

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I said I was done first so I win


LOL.

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no, i win.

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Go wankel yourself in 2 stroke oil homos...


Rotaries are gay...

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rotaries are not 2 stroke engines fyi. they are 4 stroke engines, which require some sort of oil injection to keep the seals happy. not at any point in its life has it ever been a 2 stroke motor. just because some people premix does not mean it is a 2 stroke. its called "piece of mind."

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actually, it's called "peace of mind". :1

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Only when they catch fire. :'(

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your just in denial.