is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
#41
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
Originally Posted by BirdmanMD
we gave you insight. you said we didn't know what we were talking about. go fist your mother. we tried. we were nicer to you than we are to most noobs.
I think you should prove all the ****** here wrong and put together a turbo setup for $400. Go ahead and dyno that engine of yours while you're at it. I think it's funny you don't even really know what parts you're looking for, but are certain that you can get them for $400.
#42
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
you are a piece of ---- an will not get anywhere in life trying to bite the hands that feed you. everyone is telling you this info based on there dealings with boosted d's. fight all you want. but when you end up with a slow bunk *** fmu turbosetup dont come crying here with your problems.
#43
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
Turboedit or similar=$150 or so. Used DSM T25 with internal gate=$70. Ebay D-series cast T2 manifold=$80. 2G DSM BOV or Bosch BOV=$10>. DSM SMIC=$25. Random piping couplers and ----=$50. DSM 390's=$40. That's $430>. Add a janky *** MIG downpipe for $25 more. That's $450. Probably the cheapest route to go and you won't have to deal with Chinese ---- except the manifold, but it's cast and will hold up for awhile especially at the T25's wastegate pressure which is roughly 10psi. You can lengthen the actuator rod if you want to run less boost. I forgot little ---- like oil lines, but you can run the T25 oil cooled only if you want to run low boost. You can make a return line for your car out of the stock return line and a $0.40 fitting from the hardware store+fuel hose and JB weld. The feed line can also be made ghetto style with hardware store fittings and high pressure fuel hose or whatever. You'd be better served to just buy a stainless feedline and still come in well under the $500 mark.
A lot of that ---- I listed can be found for free or cheaper than I listed even. ---- a FMU though.
A lot of that ---- I listed can be found for free or cheaper than I listed even. ---- a FMU though.
#44
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
Originally Posted by crooked muffla
you people are no help at all and jsut a bunch of ******, I want to do a turbo setup cheap all you do is shoot me down, I'm asking for 6psi t3 turbo and its just ridiculous.
Originally Posted by crooked muffla
I mention bone because 120whp (depending on what dyno) is realistic. You say I'm disagreeing, I just figured you would be able to give more insight then has been displaced...
#45
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
Originally Posted by crx2211
Turboedit or similar=$150 or so. Used DSM T25 with internal gate=$70. Ebay D-series cast T2 manifold=$80. 2G DSM BOV or Bosch BOV=$10>. DSM SMIC=$25. Random piping couplers and ----=$50. DSM 390's=$40. That's $430>. Add a janky *** MIG downpipe for $25 more. That's $450. Probably the cheapest route to go and you won't have to deal with Chinese ---- except the manifold, but it's cast and will hold up for awhile especially at the T25's wastegate pressure which is roughly 10psi. You can lengthen the actuator rod if you want to run less boost. I forgot little ---- like oil lines, but you can run the T25 oil cooled only if you want to run low boost. You can make a return line for your car out of the stock return line and a $0.40 fitting from the hardware store+fuel hose and JB weld. The feed line can also be made ghetto style with hardware store fittings and high pressure fuel hose or whatever. You'd be better served to just buy a stainless feedline and still come in well under the $500 mark.
A lot of that ---- I listed can be found for free or cheaper than I listed even. ---- a FMU though.
A lot of that ---- I listed can be found for free or cheaper than I listed even. ---- a FMU though.
thanks for an impressive post where my question was actually resonded to and thought upon...
the problem is the ECU though(dyno time$), unless I could get a PM6 with a turbo map already on it, i do have the typical "rich chipped" PM6, but doubt that its rich enough for the said 10psi.... thats why I was aiming more at 6psi; non intercooled. I have 240cc injectors, how far til those are maxed? I do have a B&M FPR, that can help a little bit... Maybe I can get my hands on some prelude injectors, or should I jsut go for the said DSM 390's? ....
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
You mean well, but you haven't the first clue about the practical aspects of DIY turbocharging and you definitely are in a fantasyland of bullshit tech-that-isn't-tech from reading forums. Trust me, you can not build a $400 turbo setup your first time out without an experienced person holding your hand through it. Your best bet is to spend a grand and make things easy the first time through, or spend $400 now and have $1200 in it after you swap out bunk used turbos three times and upgrade shitty silicone couplers, etc, over a period of six months before you get a semi-reliable 170-180 whp B2. You pay your money, or you pay your dues, and sometimes even experienced guys like me get fucked on the deal and wind up paying money AND paying more dues. You can go into this on a budget and do a good job, but if your budget is $400 with your current experience then you better not get all butt hurt by the results - you better man up and make the car run correctly.
Heres my goals: 160whp/170wtq (this would be great!), no intercooler, small turbo (no lag).... What are some good cheap cast manifolds? What are some great small turbos?
and as i've read a few times before (and as crx2211 stated), I shouldnt bother with an FMU?
#46
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
not that im with this tool or anything but i could def see a first timer building a kit for 400 bux no problem.
20-40 mani
50 adaptor plate
20 for a bov
upto 120 for turbo
50ish smic
50 oil lines
the rest for pipes and dp
bout 400 bux well spent at the junk yard o and some injectors so id see more like 500 to b safe
but i dont see him boosting a car for 400.
and my boys z6 with all the bolt ons made like 110-114 whp and that was the best he could do after forkin up ---- loads of money for after market ----
there should b a section call spoonfed(not the member) and noobs should b able to get all the stupid ---- fed to them for a small fee. and all that $ could go right into the site and noobs shouldnt b able to post untill they have been fed
edit: someone already did the run down but i am a firm believer that we should charge for spoon feeding.
20-40 mani
50 adaptor plate
20 for a bov
upto 120 for turbo
50ish smic
50 oil lines
the rest for pipes and dp
bout 400 bux well spent at the junk yard o and some injectors so id see more like 500 to b safe
but i dont see him boosting a car for 400.
and my boys z6 with all the bolt ons made like 110-114 whp and that was the best he could do after forkin up ---- loads of money for after market ----
there should b a section call spoonfed(not the member) and noobs should b able to get all the stupid ---- fed to them for a small fee. and all that $ could go right into the site and noobs shouldnt b able to post untill they have been fed
edit: someone already did the run down but i am a firm believer that we should charge for spoon feeding.
#47
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
thank you dx101
Ok listen Id just like to apologize, I got frustrated and overreacted...
So my apologies to anyone who read the thread, attempted to help me or even shot down my amateur understandings of the turbo world; sorry.
And i appreciate all the help, and every post posted.
Ok listen Id just like to apologize, I got frustrated and overreacted...
So my apologies to anyone who read the thread, attempted to help me or even shot down my amateur understandings of the turbo world; sorry.
And i appreciate all the help, and every post posted.
#48
Re: is this a good deal or not, be honest, im new to this
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