Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
ok, i finally got my new ring in (perfect circle, with chrome top ring), and i have trued my cylinders with a 3 stone style honer, but now i need to cross hatch the walls to get a good oil seal. two questions:
1. has anyone used the "bottle brush" style honers.cross hatchers. 2. what's bore on a stock D16A6 (3" right?) BONUS QUESTIONS 3. is croass hatching still needed to get a good oil ring seal. only other engine i've rebuilt are older (60's and 70's) ford big blocks. |
Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
i dont think you need to cross hatch it....it should kinda look like that when you pull it out the last time anyway
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Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
well, right now my walls are VERY SMOOTH. and i wasn't sure if they needed the cross hatching for oil seals like the old blocks did. i was looking at Sonny's 1st Gen Page:
ttp://www.muller.net/sonny/crx/ and it looks like his bores are perfectly smooth too, so is cross hatching a thing of the past then? |
Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
Originally Posted by Kaneda13
2. what's bore on a stock D16A6 (3" right?) d-series, ,75mm bore. |
Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
45 degree Cross hatch... (IMO) if you want the rings to seat good, you need to get the glazing off the cylinder walls.
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Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
when my friend honed his, the walls werent glazed at all and his rings sealed fine...maybe he had a different grit
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Re:Cylinder Hone (now with BONUS QUESTION)
i had a good glaze build up, i used 240 grit stones to pull it off. there's NO glaze now, but there's no cross hatch either. i guess i'll go ahead and do it, since i can't see it hurting it at all. anyone know where i can get a 75mm "bottle brush"... ebay i'm guessing...
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