bambooseven

so I just turn it? or turn and put pressure at the same time?

jake2001z001

ya gotta turn it while ya push it in, with the bleeder open, it will go down

quadnie

Are the parts you are putting back on OEM spec?? Just cause the lug bolts line up doesn't mean it's the right part, goto the parts store and have them check your parts versus their OEM parts (Aimco, Valucraft, etc) use their micrometer or a dial caliper for checking the width. What kind of pads are you putting back on??

Final option would be to just get the pads shaved down a little bit for fitment, then take your ---- to a brake shop next time, let them deal with it.

I've replaced quite a few brakes; everything from 4 piston bosch made calipers to motorcycle brakes.

Rarely I will see a caliper sieze up on me (my brothers '97 Eclipse GST just did!). If it does sieze up, the piston freezes and you can't budge the ******. Solution their would be a rebuild or just buy new one from napa - then bleed the brakes.

The signs of a caliper about to go bad is it will hang, you can feel the drag in a wheel when the brakes aren't pressed. Also look for scorching around the rotor, the light discoloration of the metal.. kinda multi color.

The braking system of modern cars is an open flowing simple hydralic setup. It isn't really that complicated, as compared to a hydralic setup on a John Deere backhoe (don't even ask about the nighmares I've endured there). You got the master cylinder Y'd off to porportionating valves (F + R) then each of those is Y'd off to the calipers (or wheel cylinders if you have drums in the rear). There are no check valves, just hydralic pressure coming from the master piston in the master cylinder drawing the braking fluid from the resevoir.

I can't really explain to you how the emergency brake works on your car, never taken a late model teg apart.. maybe I will look at my honda factory catalogs to see exploded parts of it.. if I feel like loading that on my computer.


-ryan

LSD Motorsports

Now get to it noob

projekteg

unfortunately, i'm an expert in brakes. yeah, the front ones = c clamp, rear = turn/compress. also, open your bleeder valve before you compress

fork

Just go to a murrays pep boys what eer and rent or borrow the tool that turns while pushing the piston in . The tools are free to rent arond here but you have to leave a deposit. You have to turn rear calipers most of the time it doesn't have anything to do with abs, But I've never had to open a bleed er to compress a piston just sounds like extra work and a possible problem to me.

idiot-stick

projekteg

have you ever looked at your reservoir after compressing them without opening the bleeder

bambooseven

opening the bleeder seems like common sense. I guess my only problem was I didn't know to turn it.

BTW yes the parts are OEM spec, they are directly from brembo north america (we are a distributor) for a GSR.

d16forlife

What do you mean "we" white man?