Honda16hb

air to water intercooler.


I also forgot to ask in my last post how you make your molds off of stuff like that?

Reddy

Why is the manifold designed like it was for a split housing? How small of a small shot are you planning on running?? I guessing your going to run under 100 so how are you jetting it since its a direct port? I have a direct port also and NX said if I wanted to run under a 100 shot I'd need to turn my fuel pressure down to 10psi

ComposiMo

Kyle... respond however you wish. I understand what you're saying. i did do everything on the front for a reason, but i did also make an effort to try to make it look cool to (after all, part of this is trying to attract sponsors and marketing partners, and that means having a car that is "cool", especially when running an older car like this)... call it rice if you must, but i think it is far from it. If your view of anything that looks good is to call it names and put it down, i'm sorry that you have that outlook in life.

As for the motor, if you have a Tacoma and it is 2wd/4cylinder, then you have a '2RZ' engine... if you have a 4wd/4cylinder, then you have the '3RZ' engine. The 3RZ engine is the engine that Chris Rado is currently ------- with, and getting 1500hp out of or whatever he's getting now (could be more). The 2RZ is the engine that Luis from Paradise Racing is messing with in Maryland. This motor in their car is pushing out about 650 to the wheels with a stock head/cams, oversized valves, rods, and pistons... factory clearances everywhere, and nothing else really 'special' done to the block. Both of them are Cast Iron blocks, and can pretty much survive anything. You don't even have to resleeve either of them to make this kind of power

The motor in my Tacoma is the 2RZ... i'm shooting for about 500-550 (turbo limited) daily driven

Keegan: Thanks... hopefully it runs well next year.. hehe. I'll definately keep everyone updated on its progress. As for AWIC, it means "Air-Water InterCooler"

ComposiMo

Kyle: The molds are pulled right from the part.. basically, you finish the plug so that it looks exactly like what you want to end up with (shiny and all)... THen, you coat them with mold release wax, and then spray a gel coat. While the gel is still a bit tacky, you pay up your first layer of fiberglass, and start building from there. You want to wind up with a very strong fiberglass part with wooden structure (especially for a part this big). The mold is then separated from the plug (which usually breaks the plug, cause they are fragile), and zip-bang-boom, you have a mold that you can then make a part from. THats a real quick explanation, and there is more to it than that, but that should give you an idea.. heh.

Whitey: Its not.. it actually has a small 'collector' of sorts right before the flange. Ity is designed that way, because that is how big the hole is leading into the turbo... i had to pus them out pretty far, otherwise i'd wind up with a nasty 'step' in the middle of the flow that could hinder performance. As for the nitrous, it'll likely be more than that... maybe around 120. With the jetting, i'm not sure yet how we're going to go with the jetting, because quite frankly, i haven't sat down and thought that part out... we're going to be running with a different kind of fuel than we had in there before, and it'll require different jetting. As for NX, i'd do whatever their techs tell you (don't lower to 10psi of course), but with a DP, you can run over 100 shot safely on a motor, because it is a more controlled shot. On a stock motor, DP, i'd feel perfectly safe running a 120 or thereabouts. You could also run a small secondary fuel pump and pressure regulator for your nitrous (this is something i am considering doing as well for next year).

Honda16hb

my definition of rice is derived from the idea that if it doesn't make your car faster it's rice, or if it's flashy it's rice. my own car has stuff that in no way increases performance, and was done with extra care to make it look better. but I also went crazy ghetto on my turbo setup because that's how I like stuff. professional racing is different than the streets. professionals tweak the body of the car for better aerodynamics, ricers on the street throw on body kits to make their cars look madd sicc y0. professionals have all kinds of stickers because they get sponsor money for those stickers. ricers associate the stickered up cars with the cars' speed, and get stickers hoping for speed. my truck has 15 stickers on the back window because I think it's funny. my civic has some spoon knock off rims because I think they look good. I come on here and use the word rice playfully, I'm not trying to hurt anyone's feelings too bad.


anyways,
is the valve work on the 2rz engine really necessary? will head flow get in the way of 500whp?

SkunT

dam, i have been missing out on this thread.
that is one bad *** car you got there.


that ---- is sexy.


I wont add anything else since i havent been filling in on the thread.

ComposiMo

Jyle: If you're going to be putting that kind of boost at it where you will be making 500hp, you'll more than likely at least want to do the springs and aftermarket valves. THe valves they have in their race car are only 1mm oversized valves... the rest of the head is stock. If you're serious about playing with your 2RZ, visit http://www.paradiseracing.com, and tell Luis i sent ya... That red car on their site is running the 2RZ motor i'm talking about.

Now, the tranny holding up will be your next worry... some say 300hp is the limit, others say cryo-treated, it'll handle a lot more. I think that properly taken care of and not abused, it can handle a good deal of power in stock form

sccaeg: Thanks! Add all you want... if you have any questions about it, ask away

Honda16hb

the tacoma project would be pretty fun, but right now all my time and money is being spent on my civic. thanks for the info though.

Reddy

Man, I just love this setup. Its kinda like mine but mine's alot shittier and since its a D its inferior in every way shape and form













I've been told that spraying on top of boost is just too dangerous and I shouldn't do it cause you can make more than enough power with the turbo alone But looking at your setup I might hook the button back up









He's a worthless post -----, don't encourage him

ComposiMo

Whitey: Not sure why they are saying that spraying while boosting is more dangerous, but i do know that a shot is more effective while under boost than it is in n/a.. so a 100 shot may turn into the equivelant of a 120 shot, etc.. but its all oxygen. Now, if your motor can only handle 10psi, and you are boosting 10psi, i wouldn't expect it to last long under nitrous usage as well...

Thats defiantely a pretty trick looking setup though. Question... why did you run the charge pipe like that off of the turbo? Why not clock the turbo, and run the pipe through the fenderwell over to the intercooler, that way you would cut back about 1.5 feet of piping, and also get the pipes up off the ground where they could get damaged by rocks or whatever... just some thoughts... hehe.

By the way, one idea for a street car... this is what i'll be doing with my truck as well, but you could use the nitrous only when you are at full throttle, and under a certain psi of boost... that way it is only being used to spool up the turbo. On the street, you don't need both really, you'll just spin... but you defaintely can use it to help spool... have it come on under full throttle, and use a pressure switch to switch off a relay when it gets to a certain boost level, nad it'll shut off the nitrous.. then if you shift, and the boost drops out, but you are in it full throttle again, the nitrous will turn on until boost catches back up. Have the torque curve of a SC, with the benefits of a turbo.. heh. Anyway, just some random idea's for ya