I had to read your post about 10 times before I realized what it is you meant... but now that you restated the timing light part, it makes perfect sense. Not bad, JD... Not bad at'all.

I'll keep you all updated. I'm hoping to do this come 5'o'clock


Matt

 

I've gone back to ------- with this after over a year, and I still can't figure it out. How would the fact that the timing mark is off on the y8 effect the initial timing of the motor (timing belt). Isn't the only mark we are concerned with when doing this the TDC (arrow) mark on the crank?


If nobody knows, oh well. Then we'll convert this to a for sale thread.


Matt

 

you want the tdc mark when you're setting up your mechanical timing for the belt on your cam, but to set your distributor timing you need the xx btdc mark. If your dist. isn't synched correctly your timing maps in the ecu will be all fucked and off and could ---- you for power.

Did you ever do a compression and leakdown test on this thing?

 

Yeah compression was good all around, I forget what it was, but all within 5psi or so, never did leakdown.

 

Start from the beginning.

What crank pulley, what lower timing cover?

What cam gear.

What is your ignition timing at idle set to in the .bin, and has the ignition timing been set to this exact spec with a timing gun?

 

Y8 crank pulley, z6 cam pulley, y8 lower timing cover, no upper timing cover.

Thanks guys.


Matt

 

Set ignition timing in the ECU maps to 12 degrees. Check ignition timing. With distributor more or less centered it should align with the marks - does it?

 

I think this is the same problem i'm having. lots O boost, but no power.

 

For D-series 2-3 degrees can make a difference in no power and good power. Another 2-3 degrees can destroy the engine. Welcome to small bore grenades.

 

Which mark should base timing align with? And are the other 2 marks + & - 4*?