whats a good a/r
 

what a/r should i look for in a t/3 ??? im looking to pull hard all the way to the redline.(7k)

Re:whats a good a/r
 

what motor? most people like the .42/.48 for quick spooling and for d-series action. Alot prefer .60/.63 for b-series upper level boost.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

its a d series, thanks for the info

Re:whats a good a/r
 

well a/r isnt nearly as crucial as turbine wheel stage. i mean a stage 2 wheel with a .48 a/r is gonna be alot laggier and flow more air then a stage 1 wheel with a .63 a/r for a d16 id go stage 1 wheel with a .63 housing. . or go the other way a larger turbine wheel will have a higher specific pressure ratio with a smaller a/r vs a smaller turbine with a bigger a/r

if your going for a 7k screamer looking at a stage 1 with a .63 might be the best comprise if just a shade laggy. with a bit of spark and fuel didling it might spool up nicely.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

I don't know about all these stages and crap, I get my turbos from the junkyard.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

Good call Kyle. This is HMT. We don't change wheels or any of that ----. ;)

Re:whats a good a/r
 

the only ---- we do with out turbos is mount em and put new seals in, other than that theys just spinny things.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

lol, same here im a newb to all this. i was told a t3
would be a better turbo that would not flatten out.
i was going to go the way of a rhb5 but did some reading and found out that it flattens out 5rpms so its not what i wanted. any other suggestions on what kind of turbo would be best for my applacation im all ears

Re:whats a good a/r
 

well the question was specifically about a/r's. i gave the best answer i could. for a d16 figure a stock 42/48 saab turbo would be a shade on the small side at 7000rpm. but given the VE or volumetric effiicency at 7000rpm it should be ok. if you need more boost but i doubt you would the sabb turbo sould be in thoery be upgraded with a larger compressor wheel in the compresso housing to like a 60 or a s60 trim and that would net you around 325hp. but the exhuast side would be a bit stuffy. at that point it would be time to go with a stage 2 turbine and a .48 a/r on the turbine side. but if your goals are modest. 250hp ish then a stock sabb 42/48 or similar turbo will be fine.

dont get all shitty. you asked a question i gave an answer. had your question been what size turbo should i run then i could have given a more specific answer. but in all honesty without a hp target then its hard to say wtf you should use.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

we show a comparison of the Higgs factory µ+ µ - collider and an e+ e- collider (NLC) that could also
study the Higgs [5]. Note the very great differences in cross sections, indicating that the e+ e- collider must have very high
luminosity. There is also a possibility to search for CP violation in the Higgs sector as we discussed at a recent UCLA

The Proton Driver is a rapid-cycling (15 Hz), high-intensity (3 ´ 1013 protons per
pulse), 1 MW 16-GeV synchrotron. It serves a number of purposes in the Fermilab
hadron program. In the near term, it replaces the present Booster and increases the proton
beam intensity in the Main Injector by a factor of four, thereby providing an upgrade path
for NuMI and other 120 GeV fixed target programs. It also opens the avenue for new
physics programs based on its stand-alone capabilities as a source of intense proton
beams. The beam power of the Proton Driver is a factor of twenty higher than that of the
present Booster. It can be employed for the production of high-intensity secondary
particle beams of pions, kaons, neutrons and neutrinos. In the long term, the Proton
Driver can serve a neutrino factory and a muon collider by generating intense short muon
bunches from a target. The design also allows an upgrade path to a 4 MW proton source
by adding a 600 MeV linac and a 3 GeV Pre-Booster at some late time (called Phase II).
To meet the requirement of a muon collider, such as a Higgs factory, the number of
bunches in Phase II will be reduced to four.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

But shortyz, one of the most striking results obtained in this domain are the recent publications related to the so-called nuclear caloric curve. These curves result from an independent measurement of both temperature T (via measurement of ratios of isotopic yields) and excitation energy E* (via calorimetry) for a nuclear system. The upper part of Figure shows the first of such measurements. One may notice the following features: i) at low energy a square root dependence of T on E* as predicted for a Fermi gas, ii) a indication of a plateau possibly corresponding to a saturation of this temperature above an excitation energy of 3 MeV per nucleon, followed by iii) a linear rise whose slope is close to the one associated to an ideal gas. These features and a possible interpretation of the plateau in terms of a latent heat could represent a signal of the long sought liquid-gas phase transition. In a similar measurement (lower part of Figure ) temperatures deduced from a series of isotopic ratios differ among each other. These differences can be resolved by taking into account effects such as the population of excited states, secondary decays, and excluded volume.

Proven here..

http://www.nupecc.org/nupecc/report9...nnc/fig6-3.gif

Re:whats a good a/r
 

interesting findings, i will review them.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

great to see people still miss the ------- point. When are you guys gonna grow the ---- up.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

so you know a little about physics, so what? probably a copy and paste job?

Re:whats a good a/r
 

OMG I just laughed my ass off. Thanks for the laugh guys. ;D

Sean, I don't know what to say to you. Come back to earth man. ;) We miss you. :P
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Re:whats a good a/r
 

nah dude. it would be nice to have a reasonable conversation once and a while so people can learn some ----. for god ------- sakes. this is whats wrong with th ehobby al together. Shti these guys should go trhow some ------- blinker fluid in the ball bearing recurulator or something.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

lol its not that man. this is home made turbo. this isnt ------- pgmfi.

put any turbo on, ghetto it up. away ya go. 90% people on here dont gib a ---- about numbers that associate with the turbo and how it performs. they arent looking to calculate the proper trims and a/r's for a drag racer.

:)

Re:whats a good a/r
 

I'm looking for that kind of info. That is why I learned to read compressor maps. I got some info on this site that helped. Glad someone is nice enough to write that stuff up instead of just saying "put any turbo on, ghetto it up"... The person asked a question that makes it seem like he is somewhat interested in his performance, so I'd say he isn't in the 90% - and for those who are, they probably didn't read this thread. So far, I've only seen one constructive response. ::)

personally, I advise you to learn to decipher compressor maps and find a compressor trim and a/r that suit your purpose. It is generally pretty easy from that point to find a turbo that fits those specs, altho you might end up spending more if you are in a hurry. But at least you have something to aim at, based on solid data rather than just taking a shot in the dark. As for the turbine stages, I'm not sure I understand what that is about. I've seen "stage 1, stage 2, stage 3, etc", but those numbers mean nothing to me... I just got a super 60, cause it looked good when I plotted it.

Re:whats a good a/r
 

thanks for the reply ;D its cool bro thanks for ur advice. its really apprecated. i just want to make sure i do my first project the right way and not half fast nothing and have it ---- up on me later. so far i went from a:
rhb5 to a t3
fmu to afc

so yes i want to do it right but still keep it cheap

Re:whats a good a/r
 

I'm looking for that kind of info. That is why I learned to read compressor maps. I got some info on this site that helped. Glad someone is nice enough to write that stuff up instead of just saying "put any turbo on, ghetto it up"... The person asked a question that makes it seem like he is somewhat interested in his performance, so I'd say he isn't in the 90% - and for those who are, they probably didn't read this thread. So far, I've only seen one constructive response. ::)

personally, I advise you to learn to decipher compressor maps and find a compressor trim and a/r that suit your purpose. It is generally pretty easy from that point to find a turbo that fits those specs, altho you might end up spending more if you are in a hurry. But at least you have something to aim at, based on solid data rather than just taking a shot in the dark. As for the turbine stages, I'm not sure I understand what that is about. I've seen "stage 1, stage 2, stage 3, etc", but those numbers mean nothing to me... I just got a super 60, cause it looked good when I plotted it.

well its best to think of turbine wheel stages like so.

with compressor wheels there are 40 trim etc. well

stage 1 is 48mm stage 2 is 52mm stage 3 is 58 mm so on and so forth.

A/R have to do with the radious of the turbine / the area of the housing.

so thats wher A/R comes from.

other then that is prety striaght forward. problem is that there isnt much hotside info and the reson is becuase the bulk of the companys out there have little to no idea how to utilize the info.