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Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by turbo dave
so nobody still has numbers to look at what kind of gains were actually dealing with as far as meth/water and water
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Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by Schwitzer Turbo
I drove the car around for about 2 weeks on Just water. then I increased boost with water meth to 1.8 bars did 100 miles in it. then we took it on the road for a Big HP tune. Insert Oil Splat here. anyway I have only got myself to blame...
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Re: Water Injection 2008
generally, spraying water/meth decreases the power of the engine (no I don't have any concrete numbers) and what I always wondered is if the extra boost gains offset the losses?
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Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by Speeder
generally, spraying water/meth decreases the power of the engine (no I don't have any concrete numbers) and what I always wondered is if the extra boost gains offset the losses?
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Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by jagojon3
Of course it does, why would anybody use it if they make less power with it?
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Re: Water Injection 2008
it almost seems that buying all the separate parts could get you into a nickel/dime situation pretty quickly..
has anyone here used MAF based controllers for water injection? |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by tamago
it almost seems that buying all the separate parts could get you into a nickel/dime situation pretty quickly..
has anyone here used MAF based controllers for water injection? |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Got around to installing my ebay kit today, still have race gas in the tank though. Once it is gone I will see how much boost I can get away with on pump with my normal amount of race gas timing.
http://www.eville140.com/alc/alc2.jpg http://www.eville140.com/alc/alc3.jpg |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by tamago
it almost seems that buying all the separate parts could get you into a nickel/dime situation pretty quickly..
has anyone here used MAF based controllers for water injection? |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by Schwitzer Turbo
so im Back on the road now, while i was down, my mate put WATER injection on his new spec Opel OPC Turbo, Originally it was pulling back 8-11 degress timing, with Water Only it pretty much solved that problem..
Eventually wanna run 1.8 bars on this setup.... |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by wafflesincars
I think you'd be better off with a Throttle Position vs MAP system. Having a transistor control the pump flow based on MAP voltage and a variable resistor on the throttle.
read through this, looks like an interesting (and cheap!) system.. http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Do...controller.htm |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Work firewall blocked it, but any kind of controller that meters the water based on how much air is going into the engine is a good idea.
It'll work with just on/off, but controller will help when you're tuning your a/f. I was originally going to to try to work out some kind of variable resistor set up on the throttle body and have it control the voltage to a pump. I'd need a nozzle that would maintain a fine spray through a range of pressures, like it would need to have a spring load or something. |
Re: Water Injection 2008
No tech, but I have ran about 1.5 gallons through my cheap ebay kit and it is working great.
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Re: Water Injection 2008
In response to the initial post:
I just thought that I would clarify that a combustion reaction is actually a exothermic reaction.... exothermic meaning that heat is a product i.e something that is created by the reaction. e.g. Combustion gives of heat An endothermic reaction is when heat is a reactant i.e. some that is used up in the reaction. e.g. The melting of ice uses heat as a reactant and would be considered endothermic |
Re: Water Injection 2008
Originally Posted by kevo1586
In response to the initial post:
I just thought that I would clarify that a combustion reaction is actually a exothermic reaction.... exothermic meaning that heat is a product i.e something that is created by the reaction. e.g. Combustion gives of heat An endothermic reaction is when heat is a reactant i.e. some that is used up in the reaction. e.g. The melting of ice uses heat as a reactant and would be considered endothermic WHOOPS |
sickk
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either way thanks for the help!!!
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well I have as 300zxTT stock turbos greddy intercoolers profecA set at 10 with out water meth with 50/50 I can run 17 and still not sense knock the motor is fairly fresh and I haven't wanted to push the boost any higher but I use a combination intake temp and injector pulse trigger and inject the mix into the charge pipes before the intercooler and just behind the throttle plates using an .08 in. nozzle @ about 350 PSI the mist and droplets are so fine it almost vaporizes immediately and reduces the intake charge temp from around 160 F down to about between 90-100 very effective the secret is to make the finest mist possible to remove the heat from the incoming air any other benefits in the aid to combustion are just gravy
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Schwitzer Turbo
(Post 1156617)
I got my car mapped, running a snowboost kit, the 175cc jet comes on at .8 bar boosting 1.4 bar with Pump Gas and 50-50.
Eventually wanna run 1.8 bars on this setup.... 1500cc sohc 12valver @ 200kw 400nm FTW! (now lets try get sum traction) Attachment 7332 |
erf
ass clowns... previously got maybe 7psi no knock water/alky injection got me 18psi no knock |
whats up man, your probally a smart guy but did you know you could inject steam into your motor for just the reason of better gas milage and not just power? somebody did it in the 1950s or something and got over 100 miles to the gallon in a 5 thousand pound car lol
that would be nice to get twice as good gas milage in an honda or something than a prius lmfao if you have netflix the steam injection thing is under " gas hole" peace out and good luck! |
8 Attachment(s)
I have used water/methanol injection on my engines for years.
My 240D simply uses a 70cc nozzle right on the turbo outlet set to turn on at 5psi. The primary goal being intake air temperature reduction in place of an intercooler. Good for about 3hp at the wheels. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1335931218 My 300D has a 2-stage system with 70cc and 210cc. First at 5psi, second at 13psi. The primary goal being more power from combustion of the methanol (40/60 mix). Dyno showed it was good for 15hp at the wheels. https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1335931218 https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1335931218 https://www.homemadeturbo.com/attach...ine=1335931218 Both cars use a Shurflo 8000 pump set to 110psi and -20 washer fluid, the 300D gets extra methanol. The simple fact is water/methanol works and its well worth the cost, especially with diesels. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by b18.
(Post 1092079)
No, water is an oxidation agent as well, it's highly reactive, especially in a combustion reaction where there is so much heat.
The water vaporizes, it never evaporates, i.e. it enters as water and in the combustion reaction gets split into Hydrogen and Oxygen separately, it reforms with excess molecules later. There is some amount of heat absorbed, but it's there for effectively the same reason the alcohol is, raising the octane. Windshield washer fluid is water and methanol/some kind of propylene molecule. But yea, this thread shouldn't stay here. Yes, I know you posted this over four years ago; but since this is a sticky I'll respond anyways. You have no clue what you're talking about, lol. The water molecules are NOT being split in half in the combustion chamber. I can go into a lengthy explaination, but I don't think anyone here cares to read it. |
I wonder why?
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