HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum

HomemadeTurbo - DIY Turbo Forum (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/)

- Forced Induction (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/)

- - Turbo Volvo (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/turbo-volvo-90580/)

So, my buddy decided to buy a 73 Volvo 142 out of someone's back yard for 700 bucks. He got it running shortly after that. heres a picture of when he brought it home.
Attachment 18735
Attachment 18736
He drove it around for a while like that, then I gave him a ride in my EXP. He decided he needed a turbo. So, about 6 months ago we ripped it apart and started buying parts. We sourced a header flange from a company who makes headers for the car, although they couldn't sell one to him since they didn't have a part number for it. :S He talked to his boss who owns an transmission shop here in town and also races some cars around here. He happened to know somebody who know somebody who knew somebody's dog's aunt's brother's cousin who works there. Anyways, bought a flange for 50 bucks. Then he proceeded to click a link at the top of this page that said acestainless. He ordered two 90's and two Ts and a chunk of straight pipe from them. This is all 2" pipe. Should flow like a mother. We got started on building this manifold about a week ago finally. heres we go
Attachment 18737
Attachment 18738
Attachment 18739
Attachment 18740
Attachment 18741
Attachment 18742
The we did a quick test fit and decided that the intake manifold doesn't fit anymore, so we had to break the tack welds and change some stuff. ended up like this
Attachment 18743
Attachment 18744
Attachment 18745
And time for another test fit
Attachment 18746
Attachment 18747
Started what we hoped would be the final welding. Look at that goofy sonovabitch welding.
Attachment 18748
after two of the welds cracked about 4 times each, made a change to the flange. ended up cutting it apart just a wee bit and the cracking stopped. Time to weld the turbo flange on there.
Attachment 18749
Attachment 18750
and picked up a T for the oil pressure line at the local hardware store
Attachment 18751
Finally fired the car off again for the first time in 6 months. got the turbo all primed up with oil, put the drain into a drain pan and let her rip
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_MVI_2185.jpg
got some sweet backfires and it just kinda ran like ----. So, I moved some wires around and we got it to run quite a bit better.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_MVI_2188.jpg
That is all for now. I'll keep this updated for ya.

tight ride, love the color

i think my next project is going to be finding an old diesel volvo or benz to convert to waste vegetable oil.

keep us updated, what you doing to get extra fuel in there? bigger injectors or a fmu?

a boost activated 5th injector is the plan for right now. then megasquirt.

Not bad, car looks kinda cool; but first thing that comes to mine is a motor swap :6

He wanted to boost a pushrod 4 banger, so thats what we are doing. I suggested swapping to a b21 or whatever.

Love it! I've had a couple Saab turbos that were sleepers for sure. My favorite was my 1985 SPG turbo that was running 15psi on the stock T3 with a couple fuel upgrades and it never had any problems at all. It was about as fast as a stock DSM, but for a soccer mom car it surprised a few people. Swedish cars are built to last and really do love boost. I'm currently looking for a Volvo turbo right now. I'd like an early 80's turbo. I have to sell my 2G Eclipse GST first, but that shouldn't be too hard with all the ricers around here. They're the ultimate sleeper! Turbo brick ftmfw!

Good that things is sexy looking. I love classic imports be it euro or japanese.

I've had a hard on for an 80's model Volvo for sometime now. My wife said she would divorce me if she ever came home and there was one in the driveway. :-\
Thats a nice build none the less. Keep the updates coming.

Don´t sell the old pushrod 4 banger short.

Jens here

http://savarturbo.se/?sida=content/bilarna.php&bil=jens

...is running mid 10s with his.
Dynoed 500+ at the wheels last season.

To my knowledge the fastest B20 in the world.

That thing is pretty awesome!

Anyways, just took a ride in the turbo volvo for the first time tonight. Seems to build some boost and be fun. 5th injector turns on and dumps more gas, doesn't seem to bog too badly. No new pictures yet, but we will get some tomorrow

Some updates
Got some exhaust on it tonight. Heres the downpipe
Attachment 18445
some pipe after that
Attachment 18446
and after that
Attachment 18447
down pipe all up in there
Attachment 18448
Attachment 18449
New picture of under hood. check out the "sweet" intake piping lol. Gets the job done till the intercooler gets here in the mail.
Attachment 18450
Attachment 18451
This will be the first part to break
Attachment 18452
Done and done...
Attachment 18453

He ordered some sport springs and a clutch for it today, because the clutch slips pretty awesomely in second, third and fourth.

And a quick video from tonight. No plates on the car yet, so it had to stay in the parking lot.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_MVI_2207.jpg

Don´t think so.
Rears of those old rustbuckets are in fact Dana corp 30s,and trust me...they´ll take a fair amount of beating as long as the parts at least are fairly fresh.

Over here it used to be all the rage to stuff CSBs in 240s(bricks)

The thing is that it´s WAY easier than you think,in as much that u use the chevy engine,trans and driveshaft....and a small chevy joint will fit directly to the large Volvo one.

I´ve personaly run such a approx 500hp CSB on a more or less stock later Volvo 1031(dana 31) without any ills.

Not too worried about the rear end, its the U-joint and then drive shaft that we are expecting to break.

Nah.
It´ll take quite a pounding.
To my knowledge Jens up there is still running the stock stuff on his for instance.
Just make sure U-joints aso are in shape and you´re all good.

If your opinion stems from the looks of a normal "domestic" US made driveshaft vs the Volvo stuff,be aware that the gauge thickness of the Volvo is way way way heavier than the generic US made ones.
Main reason that outer diameter is kept down is rotational speeds(tangential speeds)

Just look at a bimmer/merc/whatever euro driveshaft of choice.
They´re all more or less built the same way.