well just to let everyone know....the overheating problem was the fact that the fan was only coming on after the thermostat opened...i wired it so i came on as soon as i turned the car on and no more overheating

and as for oil pressure, i upgraded oil from synthetic 5w30 to non-synthetic 10w30 and everything was good....other then a bad connection...
on top of fixing all of these things....the hinges on the hood broke due to rust and a major gas tank leak that was fixed before came back....

car from hell...lol

thanks for the help everyone
you should see a post with it fully complete soon...keep your eyes open

 

If it IS sprung bearing, thicker oil will work for a short while but the oil pressure will go back down after a period of time, don`t ask because I know

 

really? ----. it just took a beating on a dyno today

 

So, you have rod knock and decided it's a good time to dyno?

 

Now that takes *****

 

my buddy drove around with a spun bearing in his mustang for about 6 months before it finally pooped out. we usually went out every weekend and raced, then he raced a z3 on the way home from work, went to fire it up to go to a car show and there was a terrible terrible noise. crank is all scored up as well. it was a good chance to upgrade the motor.

 

Detriots idle at 0-1psi. My truck idles at 10psi, elky at 20psi and the c10 at 15psi. Dont worry. mech oil gage ftw

 

My a6 idles at 35 and at 3k its at 80psi When its on cold start up its at 90psi. As long as im not filling my head with oil im ok with it, but Ive been driving it this way for over a year now and no problems at all.

 

You should drop down the cold weight for the oil you are using.
10W-30
xxW-xx
^ ^
Cold Hot viscosities.


I have heard that wide range multi-viscosity oils have breakdown problems, but not conclusive on that.

Wierd, since Ferrari recommmends 5W-60 for racing in their cars.