Trying to lower the boost..
 

I'm trying to lower the boost on a 13g by lengthening the actuator rod but it's not working. Peak boost doesn't change, it just takes longer to get there. Currently making 9 psi an I'd like to get it down to 7. I've cut and threaded the rod and I'm using a coupler nut so it's adjustable.

Still working on Megasquirt so for now it's running stock ECU. There's a bit of pinging through the det cans at full boost around 6500rpm. I'm gonna try some other methods to fix that but I still wanna know why I can't lower the boost.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Just take it easy dont boost it til finish the megasquirt. Its not worth risking the motor. Using the stock ecu is a crapshoot anyway.
Stay out of the gas.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

It is not ------- necessary to hit 6500rpm on stock maps.

I can tool around town short shifting and never break 3500.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

this is why most people blow up their turbo cars

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Good for you. This is a 4age in an MR2, it cruises at 3500. Maybe nobody actually read the title? I'm not giving the motor hell, just trying to eliminate any chance of detonation. I appreciate your concern guys, but can someone actually answer the question that was asked?

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Put pinholes on one of your couplers until you reach the desired boost.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

or just take off one of your vac lines. dont have to ruin a coupler.
im driving my turbo 4ag daily and never have to hit 6500, however, i have and theres no pinging. and im on stock as well.
are you using high comp internals.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

weld the flapper.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

I don't want no boost, just less. There are only three vac lines on my car: WG, BPV, and gauge .

I'm not sure if the coupler idea was serious or not. The pre-turbo AFM probably wouldn't like it either.

As far as internals go I'm using GZE 8.0:1 forged. I can't hear anything un-aided and there's no sign of detonation on the plugs. What I'm hearing is probably the result of tweaking the AFM too far and not allowing enough air through the bypass. I feel confident this could be daily driven without problems for a long time. I don't know why so many people here think an engine will definitely blow up without stand-alone or whatever the honda guys are running. Before anybody shits there panties about the previous sentence... I am building megasquirt right now. I realize the benefits of proper management. 8 lbs on a properly built 4age with stock NA electronics has been proven many times to work and last.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

If your adjusting the bypass screw, do yourself a favor and step away from the vehicle.

You need to pop the top and adjust the spring tension on the door of the AFM. If my memory serves me correct, you want to release some tension to allow the AFM to show a higher reading.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

365 injectors in place of 210s. Either you guessed wrong or you don't know. Spring tension needs to increase. I've gone far enough to get a decent AFR at idle, but lying to computer saying there's less load on the engine means it want's to advance timing. Allowing a little air to bypass the flapper will help lower AFR at idle also. So, do me favor and step away from this thread if you're going to assume.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

You may wish to read this: http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=290824

There is a link to the 1990 TRD Catalog, Releasing tension by moving the spring counterclockwise adds fuel


Its been a little while since I had a 16V with an AFM. Had the bitch running pretty sporty with cam gears, Supra AFM, Lots of timing, and a 3"cherrybomb exhaust. (sounded mean as ---- through a DTM tip)

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Thanks, but I've had the hardcopy for years. I don't need to add fuel with 365 injectors when the computer thinks they are 210s. I'm doing all I can to lean it out. It's currently idling at about 12:1 cold, 14:1 hot, light accel in the 12s and anytime boost comes in it's in the low 10:1 range. Anyway back to the question.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

your being a pretty big prick to people just trying to give you advice. if you were a little nicer maybe people would respond with what you want to hear. the answer is there is no way to lower the boost on an internally gated actuator.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

I'm just defending my actions with reasons. When someone tells me to "step away from my car", that irritates me. Then proceeds to tell me exactly what I shouldn't do. When the comment "this is why most people blow up their turbo cars" was said that really pissed me off. You don't know me, so don't assume you do. I asked a question and got a lot of ---- about everything not pertaining to the question.

To those who are trying to answer I do appreciate the help as said earlier. Some of the suggestions just won't work in my case.

No hard feelings with anybody here. But I'm a little tired of forums because too many people think they know more than anybody else and feel the need to prove their superiority over everbody. Unfortunately it's just babble most of the time. I've defended my actions and given solid reasons to back it up. If you don't wanna hear it don't call me a :1 and tell me step away from my car.

So apparently the answer is that I've already extended the actuater arm as far as I can. Thank you.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

get a wastegate from a diff car make it work

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

You can cut the wastegate open and either cut the spring or put a weaker on in, but don't puncture the diaphragm, and it has to be sealed properly. Someone wrote a how to on doing this, I can't remember where it is.

I would just use one from a different turbo and weld it on.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Dude, MHI makes ------- shitty turbos with ------- small wastegate ports. The actuator arm is too long and short of wiring the wastegate flapper open you arent going to get that failure internal gate to effectively control boost below the factory 9psi spring pressure.

Do it ------- right. Did you not read Concept's thread in which I tried to make it clear as glass that the 4A-GE is UBER sensitive to igniton timing changes?

Stock toyota VAST type ecu systems suck the ------- cock. They were ------- obsolete when the MK1 came out in 84'. They do a piss poor job of controlling fuel and ignition from the factory, ---- turboing it and expecting it to last.
If you have ANY detonation with that engine, audible or not, you have a ticking time bomb in your car. Not if, but when. Dont listen to the ------- retards on mr2oc.fail.com, 99% of those fucks dont know how to change their own oil. Turning the boost down is not the solution. How much time do you have in this car boosting it, then rebuilding the motor? Control your right foot or your wallet will control it for you.

Now stop being a wanker and put the MS on it. /Thread.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

+1

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

If I could figure out this PC I would love to finish up the megasquirt and put it in today. But, nobody seems to be able to help so far.

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/w...tony/error.jpg

Anybody? I think I have just loaded the .s19 file on to the MS. Don't know whether or not it's the right one, but it was the only one I could find. Now I'm trying to open megatune and I get that message.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

HMT rule #12293-NEVER ------- LOWER THE BOOST

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

he does not car about rules do you see any porn in this thread

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Sounds like Megatune isnt configured for your firmware version. You have MSII v3.0 right? More info= better and im too lazy to go look at your other thread. Check this stuff first.

Also, do you have your MS setup as shown HERE: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vast.htm Or if not what are you doing different?

This might help too, if you find your versions are incompatible.
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/downloads.htm

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

You're correct, I'm building MSII v3.0. I bought the unassembled kit and currently on step 41. In step 40 I loaded "Monitor_v2.888a.abs" on to the megasquirt. That was the only s19 file I could find.

In the configurator under "MegaTune2.25" I don't see an "ini.2.888" file just "megasquirt-II.ini.2.862". Is that the problem?

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Most likely. Like I said, megatune doesnt like your firmware version, or isnt setup properly for your version.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

stock subaru wastegates are 7lbs

i think i have one

EDIT i do:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1226081543.jpg

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

i had many confusions with the whole MSII v3 build but i somehow got through it. sounds like you should uninstall and start over.
1-follow the instructions
2- read ahead of the instructions (they are not written very well and later on you might realize something that its too late for)
3-read the instructions again and again.

thats how i got through it. but who knows if its going to work since its not installed yet. but as for the laptop tests with the stim,
mines all good.

Re: Trying to lower the boost..
 

Megasquirt problem solved.. All software I downloaded came from diyautotune.com. That
s the problem.

Moving on now.