chinoy

Feed up with playing with springs and MBCs.
One sweet shortcut.
A Red Button under that dash labeled the terminator.
2$ Air Selunoid from the junk yard. Between the WG and Turbo.
On it works like stock
Throw the switch and signal to the wg is shut off.

Thats stage1.
Next stage is hook up the MAP sensor into the picture. With a small UP down key where you set the PSI you want the wastegate to open.

Here is the pic of the first part.
Map sensorts youve allready seen.
Now just do the pic to switch on and off the selunoid.

whiterice

terminator as in you would terminate your motor?
no signal to the wastegate would mean your turbo would boost to its max without the wastegate opening.
this sounds like a tech write up, but have you done that.
thats not too safe for everyone to try.

MikeJ-2009

You know, Jeff sent me one of those kia solenoids that looks just like that and I figured thats what it was for.

Now if someone could explain how to hook it up correctly that'd be good.

Toysrme

You could use a Jacob's switch to turn the solenoid on at X psi. Then wire your switch on the signal going to the solenoid. That way the solenoid allows flow via the jacobs switch triggering it, or you can turn that signal off. Be careful over overboosting.




The best solution in this style would be to use a programmable injector driver to drive one of the more sophisticated solenoids. That way you have TPS, RPM, and an air-flow/pressure signal to tune with, and you can varry the pressure to the actuator all you want. The higher end n2o solenoids have been used in this manner to control the airflow to a wastegate actuator.

chinoy

It depends on what kind it is.
This particular unit wont pass air in its default mode. i.e. without anything hooked up its closed.

When you connect power to it. It opens and air flows.

So just plug it in between the wastegate and the signal source.
Power it with a +12 volts off something that only has power when the engine is runing. Route this line past your switch. So turn on key. Valve is open if switch is making contact.
Your riding down the road. And you see that guy with the mag wheels, 12" Tacho and no exhaust. Get into a race with him. Throw your switch. Power to the selunoid is cut.

Please understand. Im sharing what Im doing with my car.
Right or wrong. Smart or Dumb.
Im not selling these units. Nor recomending them.

So dont Jump me.

I have a 1996 8 valve 1.3 LTR car. That weighs 800 Kgs.
And I like taking out the Hondas
So Have to go over the edge sometimes.
Catch my avtar. Then decide if its worth trying anything I try.

Im working on the circuit where we can programe the exact PSI. It works at.
This is very simple really. Let the WG be isolated from the signal line. i.e. power is off. Wait till the map sensor gives you the voltage your waiting for. See the voltage and give the Unit juice opening it and allowing your WG to pop open.
Its that simple.
We could probally do it cheapest if we just went analogue and used jumpers to pick the boost.

PureCRXtasy

Hook it up how? What specifically do you want to do? The solenoid is just an electric valve. The 2 inputs are most likely 12v and ground and opening the circuit to either will probably open/close the valve but that's easy enough to test. Just use an old ATX computer power supply or a 12v ac/dc convertor (the plugs with the big black square deal) I'm sure you have one of them with 12v or if not, hardware stores and rat shack sells multi voltage versions and 12v is always included. I saw one at a Rite Aid pharmacy for $10 the other day.

xternal

good idea

Weq

See the stupidest thing about this idea is thinking that as soon as a wastegate is open, its going to halt the building of boost. You need a progressive switch (not just on-off) with differrent ramp rates. In this theory it may seem plausable but in reality you will open the wastegate at a preset voltage, the boost will spike, and die off like a **** then the wastegate will shut and the process will repeat. Your looking at a bumpy boost curve with atleast atleast 3psi variation.

chinoy

In its default mode there is no opening. Its used simplly to isolate the WG.

As to the other issue futher down the road that should be stupidlly solved by introducing a preset delay value

Toysrme

He's making the electric version, a simple mechanical pop-off valve.
You wouldn't get that thing to control the maximum boost, I don't think that solenoid has pulsed on-off (think injector), or progressive on (like a valve) capabilities.

Like I said tho, it would be great when used in conjunction with a Jacobs switch. Tho you couldn't control overall boost, you could do some nifty things that way.
1) With a Jacobs switch, and your dash switch, you could eliminate wastegate creep - and turn it off completely to run no boost control
2) You could use two Jacob's switches, One set to trigger at a higher boost than the first (the normal). The second would be set at a higher boost level. Also put the second Jacob's on a switch.

What happens, is that with the first (low boost) switch disabled, and the higher boost turned on - you have introduced a boost spike - on purpose. Obviously, with both turned off - you have no boost control, and with the first enabled, you have the original control.


That... Would give you a variable boost option. While peak boost would still be the same, you can obviously introduce boost spikes if you wish - which is not an un-common practice to gain power. Even without the 2nd solution, you could set the Jacob's switch up to introduce whatever boost spike you want. Spikes are not dangerous thing to introduce - as long as the spike is controlled in the manner that you want. (i.e. you allow it to spike, but not so high to be damaging)








I still recommend the use of a Jacobs switch to turn the solenoid on. That will eleminate wastegate creep, while still turning the solenoid on. You may not want to do that tho. Many medium sized (and larger) engine/turbocharger combinations can develop driveability problems if their turbocharger is spooling flat out all the time. The throttle responce can become very, "touchy", to simply non existant. I would doubt it would create a problem on most of the enigne's turboed here. The power levels stay fairly low, and the rpm ranges yall deal with are much broader.





AFA using an injector driver, to control a wastegate - there are a bunch of factory solenoids that are controlled by a pulsed signal. i.e. just like a fuel injector. Using one of the simple fuel injector controllers to control one would give you an extremely cheap electronic boost control. That would be a very fun $200-$350 project for someone.