Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

Hey guys,
I just installed my Autometer A/F Gauge. Now before someone flames me, i realize i could have gone more precise and bought the wideband setup, but all i want to make sure is that im not running COMPLETELY lean or rich at one point. Anyways, my question is, when i let off the gas completely and just coast, the LED's turn off, and when i step back on the gas they come back on? Is this normal. Also, when i am at a stoplight, it will be lean or a couple seconds, and then sweep to rich, and then back to lean. Sound ok? And lastly, while i'm just cruising, the gauge is sweeping all over the place. Once again... is that normal? Thanks for the input.
Devin

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

Yes...all that you describe is normal.

Buy a wideband for tuning, when you have the cash. It is absolutely necessary for tuning your car.

Craig @ Tuner Toys

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

alright, so if i purchase the wideband at some point, will this help me to see how the SAFC should be tuned for accurate usage, or would i still need to take it to a dyno?

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

Do yourself a BIG favor and read up on Uberdata (obd1) or Turboedit (obd0). After you read all of that stuff you will understand why you NEED a wideband.

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

you stated to read up on Uberdata which is for obd1 and turboedit which is obd0 at least thats what i made of your parentheses, my car is obd2, its a 2000 integra. So would either of those systems help me? Also, i'm not trying to make a super fast car, i'm going to only be running 5 psi. I just wanted to have it a little quicker. Thats why i was looking at the AFC hack, instead of an entire engine management system.

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

You can change your OBD2 to OBD1 with an adapter...If you are just running 5 psi, I would just stick with the stock injectors and the SAFC...As long as you go full ritch when you are in boost, I bet you'll be fine. But, soon, you will want more MORE MORE!! Boost is a DRUG! :P

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

yea, i have a boost controller and i was looking to MAYBE bump the boost to 7 or 8psi at the very most if i want to race at all, but other wise, keep it around 4 and 5 psi for daily driving. So you think the stock injectors would be sufficent with the SAFC? I'd really like to run the stocks just for ease. Also, would it help me at all or be worth my money to buy the obd1 ecu, or just stick with mine?

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

obd1 with a chip program and some data loggin

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

yup, totally normal, if it blinks and really gives you no idea as to whats going on with your fuel mixture, then its working perfect.

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

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You can change your OBD2 to OBD1 with an adapter...If you are just running 5 psi, I would just stick with the stock injectors and the SAFC...As long as you go full ritch when you are in boost, I bet you'll be fine. But, soon, you will want more MORE MORE!! Boost is a DRUG!


somebody correct me if im wrong but I thought that the hack was used to control bigger injectorslike 390 or 450's and fmu is used with stock injectors for low boost settings

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

OK, so another question, if i want to use my stock injectors and run boost, what is the highest psi i can run and still be running safe and secure (keep in mind it is my daily driver)? Also, if i keep the stock injectors for a little bit, can i still use the SAFC to control them? The only reason I want to use the stock injectors is because i am dying to put this damn kit on, and want to wait and save money to buy rc injectors.

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

You can use the SAFC or VAFC to add fuel with the stock injectors. They will not give you as much fuel as a 390 or 450cc injector and they will max out MUCH sooner, but you CAN use the SAFC to richen up your A/F ratio with the STOCK injectors. The whole point in trying to keep the stock injectors is that is it WAY easier to tune.

All the SAFC and VAFC do is change the signal going to the ECU from the MAP sensor, thus tricking it into adding or subtracting fuel. If you can keep enouph fuel going into the motor with the STOCK injectors when you are in boost it is acually safer than going to bigger injectors with the hack. The reason is that when you turn the big injectors WAY down the timing gets WAY advanced becuase you are confusing the computer. When the Map signal is all screwed up the computer advances the timing to try and compensate, and that can be just as dangerous, if not more dangerous than going lean. As long as you don't go lean, you are acually safer using the stock injectors.
You really do need a WIDEBAND to do this correctly, but if you want to take the chance, the cheap A/F gauge is better than nothing.

If you don't want to send alot on your setup, and you never intend to go higher boost, than the FMU is a better idea for you. If you alread have the SAFC, the best way to go would be to get the bigger injectors and the AFC hack, but remeber to LOWER your base timing, it will keep you safer this way. Look around, you can find 450's or 390's for pretty cheap. You just have to keep you eyes open, ----, I best there are some for sale from somebody on here...

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

thanks very much for all that info, that explained a lot to me, thing is, i now have more questions, i hope you dont mind me asking. 450cc injectors make my timing advance to an extreme, and the stock 240's or whatever they are might not be just enough, SO... would something in the middle be a better idea, like around 330 or so? Also, call me a noob if you want, but i understand the wideband would help lots in tuning, only thing is, i dont really understand what the wideband is telling me. It is measured on a scale of exhaust gas temp right? So how do i read that to tell me whether it is rich or lean? Is it the lower the temp the richer or something? Thanks for everyones help.

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

thanks for clearing that up but I say the hell with low boost.When I started my project I was told its addictive and they were not lieing.I say get a p75 and have projekteg hook you up with uberdata.turn boost up to 10-12lbs and kick v8 ass.if you have to save up do it cause itll be worth it .

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

AGREE!! beleive me, you WILL want more. ;D

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

I am on 440cc injectors and the vafc and I have a base tune with no idle stumble and its making pretty good power...I intend to run 10psi on the vafc setup...and eventually be the "GINNY" for the megasquirt in my vehicle. Wideband is the way to go...I am going to get an onboard system eventually...and havent gone to the lengths of getting an AF guage...no need for a light show...especially since I will be getting the wideband

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

if your going to run 5-7 psi and sont want to get to involved in it do your self a favor and leave the stock injectors in, put an fmu and missing link on it, and if you feel fiesty also put an afc on it and have it tuned... its a tone better to have a managment system... but dont be fooled i have seen a 255 pump, afc, fmu, and missing link on 15 psi making over 300 whp no problem, that ---- still gets the job done....

Re:Standard A/F Ratio Gauge Question
 

hold up. YOu've seen a car running the afc, fmu and missing link running 15 psi on stock injectors?